We're enjoying a few quiet days in Katherine (NTs third largest town population 11,000). It's warm and the humidity is starting to rise, but still pleasant. We got a great site with a free BBQ beside us giving us more room and no neighbours and we're only a short stroll to the bistro and best pool of our travels (the reason we are back here in the park).
Sunday after setting up we went to Woolworths and did a large grocery shop then that night we went up for a lamb roast at the bistro along with Ron and Del we originally met in Argyle. The roast was OK, but sitting under the big fig tree outside under the stars (with no insects) was wonderful.
Monday was a quiet day spent doing a little clothes shopping in the morning, then in the afternoon, swimming with Ron and Del-just getting in and out of the pool or spa when we needed to cool off. Russ did finally fix the TV problem with the (free) help of Johnny's Electics here in town. Our latest problem was a shorted out booster box that Johnny sent him home to fix after telling how he could do it. Very kind of Johnny as TV repairs usually don't come that cheap!
While we were shopping, we met two couples who we'd sat beside at the bistro-they were in-laws and were from Sale and Terang. Dan and Sue from Terang were the local chemist and kinda teacher and Sue had actually relieved at Panorama Ave kinder so knew exactly where we live!
They were heading into WA, so offered us their herb gardens that they had brought with them from home. Of course we accepted telling them they were going to a very good home.
On Monday evening we called over to pick up the herbs and hear what they thought about Edith falls as we planned to go the next day (yesterday). They weren't that impressed.
Swimming in the Upper Pool Edith Falls
Against their advice we headed out the 60ks to Edith falls. We walked 1k up to the escarpment and Upper Pool for a fantastic swim and beautiful view, then came down the other 1.6 "track" to the lower pool for another swim before heading home.
Upper Pool
Apart from me moaning and groaning all the way down the rocky escarpment for 1.6ks, it was great and I'm so glad we decided to go see for ourselves. The Upper Pool was a series of small pools and quite a bit warmer than the Lower Pool. The lower one was large-it was 150 metres (or 3 swimming pool lengths) to swim to the waterfall and had a strategically placed croc cage to give us comfort.
The Lower Pool
Last night we went over for drinks with them and it turns out the others didn't go to the upper pool.
Today we're doing a bit of washing, then will go check out the botanic gardens and museum, tomorrow we are going to Darwin.
Wednesday, August 29, 2007
Monday, August 27, 2007
Victoria River Crossing
The Old Victoria River Crossing
We stayed two nights at the Victoria River Crossing. It has a caravan park out back and while it seemed more civilised than Timber Creek, it had less shade so was quite hot and the sites were very uneven, so it was difficult to pick a good one and level the van!
The eastern end of Gregory national park is far more scenic than the other end. The road house sits in the middle of huge red escarpments dotted with livingstonia palms and the Victoria river cuts through all this.
Russ got the boat off and we went down the Victoria River as far as we could go (about 10 kilometres) then we headed back to the boat ramp and the junction of the Victoria River and Gregory Creek which we motered up another couple of ks.
Of all the boat trips we have done over the years, that part of the Victoria River was THE most beautiful I have ever seen-the wild life (crocs, kangaroos, tortoises, birds etc)and scenery was amazing. The other amazing thing was that we were the only people on the river. There are no houses or roads along that stretch of road and no other boats were put in at the ramp. There used to be a boat cuise, but the roadhouse lost the licence to the local aboriginals who haven't gotten around to starting their boat cruise yet. So we really were out there seeing something not manay can get to see. I'm angry at myself for taking out a camera with two flat batteries though as I got no pictures!. Neither did Russ when he got up early and walked to the top of the escarpment (a couple of ks) to lookout over the valley!
30 years ago when I started to travel Australia, I had a dream to one day go right around the country on Highway 1. When we arrived in Katherine yesterday, I finally did it. Now I'd like to buy a camper trailer and go all the places you can't take a caravan like ours!
We are staying in a park we stayed in 6 years ago. It's still lovely. After a big shop for groceries, we ran into a couple we met recently (Ron and Del), so all went for a swim, then over to the park bistro for a Sunday roast and a few drinks. We sat outside under the stars eating, listening to a very pleasant entertainer and just having a nice time.
We stayed two nights at the Victoria River Crossing. It has a caravan park out back and while it seemed more civilised than Timber Creek, it had less shade so was quite hot and the sites were very uneven, so it was difficult to pick a good one and level the van!
The eastern end of Gregory national park is far more scenic than the other end. The road house sits in the middle of huge red escarpments dotted with livingstonia palms and the Victoria river cuts through all this.
Russ got the boat off and we went down the Victoria River as far as we could go (about 10 kilometres) then we headed back to the boat ramp and the junction of the Victoria River and Gregory Creek which we motered up another couple of ks.
Of all the boat trips we have done over the years, that part of the Victoria River was THE most beautiful I have ever seen-the wild life (crocs, kangaroos, tortoises, birds etc)and scenery was amazing. The other amazing thing was that we were the only people on the river. There are no houses or roads along that stretch of road and no other boats were put in at the ramp. There used to be a boat cuise, but the roadhouse lost the licence to the local aboriginals who haven't gotten around to starting their boat cruise yet. So we really were out there seeing something not manay can get to see. I'm angry at myself for taking out a camera with two flat batteries though as I got no pictures!. Neither did Russ when he got up early and walked to the top of the escarpment (a couple of ks) to lookout over the valley!
30 years ago when I started to travel Australia, I had a dream to one day go right around the country on Highway 1. When we arrived in Katherine yesterday, I finally did it. Now I'd like to buy a camper trailer and go all the places you can't take a caravan like ours!
We are staying in a park we stayed in 6 years ago. It's still lovely. After a big shop for groceries, we ran into a couple we met recently (Ron and Del), so all went for a swim, then over to the park bistro for a Sunday roast and a few drinks. We sat outside under the stars eating, listening to a very pleasant entertainer and just having a nice time.
Timber Creek
Victoria River from Policeman's Point Lookout
Timber Creek turned out to be a much better stop over than we’d expected. Quite a few people had advised us to drive straight through to Victoria River Crossing and stay there, but we took no notice of them!
Russ (and I) wanted to visit the west end of Gregory National Park and put our boat in on the river, so we needed to stay 3 nights. We took a site in the very back corner of the park and as it was really quiet we were able to spread us and the boat and car over three sites which was pretty nice. Our neighbours turned out to be a couple (Beryl and Ron) we had been beside in Wyndham-it was nice to see them again. It was good to have TV, internet and phone again too after a few days without at Lake Argyle.
Our fishing trip the following morning was a bit of a waste of 6 hours-a couple of archer fish, lots of cat fish and no barra. We saw lots of crocs with one being the biggest we have ever seen. We reckoned he was 15-17 foot long! I have to say I don’t mind the crocs as we fish, but I don’t like pulling into the boat ramp, getting out then being left to hold the boat while Russ gets the trailer. I keep a very sharp lookout and would just let the boat go if a croc looked like coming anywhere near me. We got home from fishing to find another couple we’d been beside at Lake Argyle (Ron and Del) were just a few vans away from us. We had a nice catch up with them and will probably stay in the same park in Katherine in a couple of days.
Gregory National Park from Calcite Walk Lookout
Gregory national park was pretty good-very hot and dry though and the Limestone Gorge we’d particularly gone out to do was closed due to recent storm damage. If only they’d posted that on the information board 6ks back (6 k of 4WD track). Instead, we took the shorter Calcite Walk to see a calcified waterfall. It was pretty good and the views from the lookout were nice too. Then we took a walk around the homestead, outbuildings and stock yard of what was Bullita Station. It’s free and self guided and really interesting.
Harness Shed at Bullita Homestead
When we got back from our drive, the park was really starting to fill up, so we put the boat on the car, packed up the trailer and squeezed back onto our original site. A really nice SA couple (Bob and Anna) with two Shiatsus turned up in a huge Winnebago motor home and pulled in frontward beside us. That meant we were all sitting outside on the same side, so we ended up having a drink, then dinner and finally a coffee together while we sat and talked and talked and talked. They own a couple of pubs but have leased them out and have been in catering for years, so we had lots to talk about. They are going the other way and really wanted us to stay on another night, but there is only so much to do in Timber Creek!
Victoria River from Escarpment Lookout
We left Timber Creek this morning and drove on to Victoria River Crossing where we plan to stay at least two nights so we can do the escarpment walk in the east end of Gregory National Park. The river looks much prettier here too, so I think the boat might be coming off and if it does, that probably means another night. There is a helicopter giving scenic flights just over at the roadhouse, and I’m deciding if I will go take one as the price is really cheap ($60 for 12 minutes of terror).
Timber Creek turned out to be a much better stop over than we’d expected. Quite a few people had advised us to drive straight through to Victoria River Crossing and stay there, but we took no notice of them!
Russ (and I) wanted to visit the west end of Gregory National Park and put our boat in on the river, so we needed to stay 3 nights. We took a site in the very back corner of the park and as it was really quiet we were able to spread us and the boat and car over three sites which was pretty nice. Our neighbours turned out to be a couple (Beryl and Ron) we had been beside in Wyndham-it was nice to see them again. It was good to have TV, internet and phone again too after a few days without at Lake Argyle.
Our fishing trip the following morning was a bit of a waste of 6 hours-a couple of archer fish, lots of cat fish and no barra. We saw lots of crocs with one being the biggest we have ever seen. We reckoned he was 15-17 foot long! I have to say I don’t mind the crocs as we fish, but I don’t like pulling into the boat ramp, getting out then being left to hold the boat while Russ gets the trailer. I keep a very sharp lookout and would just let the boat go if a croc looked like coming anywhere near me. We got home from fishing to find another couple we’d been beside at Lake Argyle (Ron and Del) were just a few vans away from us. We had a nice catch up with them and will probably stay in the same park in Katherine in a couple of days.
Gregory National Park from Calcite Walk Lookout
Gregory national park was pretty good-very hot and dry though and the Limestone Gorge we’d particularly gone out to do was closed due to recent storm damage. If only they’d posted that on the information board 6ks back (6 k of 4WD track). Instead, we took the shorter Calcite Walk to see a calcified waterfall. It was pretty good and the views from the lookout were nice too. Then we took a walk around the homestead, outbuildings and stock yard of what was Bullita Station. It’s free and self guided and really interesting.
Harness Shed at Bullita Homestead
When we got back from our drive, the park was really starting to fill up, so we put the boat on the car, packed up the trailer and squeezed back onto our original site. A really nice SA couple (Bob and Anna) with two Shiatsus turned up in a huge Winnebago motor home and pulled in frontward beside us. That meant we were all sitting outside on the same side, so we ended up having a drink, then dinner and finally a coffee together while we sat and talked and talked and talked. They own a couple of pubs but have leased them out and have been in catering for years, so we had lots to talk about. They are going the other way and really wanted us to stay on another night, but there is only so much to do in Timber Creek!
Victoria River from Escarpment Lookout
We left Timber Creek this morning and drove on to Victoria River Crossing where we plan to stay at least two nights so we can do the escarpment walk in the east end of Gregory National Park. The river looks much prettier here too, so I think the boat might be coming off and if it does, that probably means another night. There is a helicopter giving scenic flights just over at the roadhouse, and I’m deciding if I will go take one as the price is really cheap ($60 for 12 minutes of terror).
Tuesday, August 21, 2007
Lake Argyle
Lake Argyle at Dusk
It’s been a lovely couple of nights so far at Lake Argyle, which is a really pretty spot in the Kimberley. We arrived here quite late on Saturday as I needed to stop in Kununurra at the hospital before we came on here. I’ve been having trouble with my right eye and wanted to see someone about it before we headed here and on to Timber Creek and Victoria River Crossing where I knew there’d be no medical services (apart from a first aid box a lot of roadhouses keep).
I’d been to the hospital in Wyndham the afternoon before, but arrived late and the doctor had finished for the day. The only other way to see ANY doctor in the area was to go to outpatients in Kununurra in the morning. There would be no doctor at the hospital on Sunday as she’d be out at a community and there are no doctors in private practice in a town of 6000 plus us tourists. All pretty tough for the locals.
After a wait of 4 hours to see the doctor, although the eye was swollen, bloodshot and vision blurred, they couldn’t find what has been irritating it and me for 9 days.
When it was time for me to see the doctor, a nurse called a large aboriginal man in a wheelchair and me in at the same time. I followed him in, then asked another nurse where I should go. She said it was OK if I went in with my husband which gave him and me a good laugh!
The drive out to Lake Argyle was very pretty-especially when we turned off the highway and drove the 35ks in. Lake Argyle is Australia’s largest body of fresh water and was formed when the cattle station Argyle owned by the Durack family was dammed. The Durack family came to Australia from Ireland and eventually settled up here taking pastoral leases around Old Halls Creek, Wyndham and Kununurra. Mum borrowed all Mary Durack’s books on the family history from Warragul library when I was around 12 and as I read them all too, I was pretty excited to see the area.
Dead Horse Springs
Sunday we took a drive out to all the look-outs over the lake, then after lunch went out to the Durack’s Argyle homestead. It was rescued before the site was flooded and then rebuilt as a tourist attraction over the next two years. It was apparently hard work as the stone walls were over 13 inches thick and had to be numbered to get them back together. On the way back we stopped to look at Dead Horse Spring, took a drive along the Slipway Creek and finally stopped at an interesting looking rock. We thought there should be aboriginal rock paintings somewhere like there and there was. We found a cave with a very good crocodile, people and the stenciled hands you often see.
Ord River and Picnic Ground
We had thought about taking a boat tour, but decided the $150 each for a 5 hour tour was a bit pricey especially when we already had 3 days sailing in the Kimberley! Instead, we put our boat in the water and gave ourselves a 3 hour tour. We saw lots of birds, a croc and we had a couple of bites on our barra lure-it was beautiful out there and cost us $17 and two pieces of fruit!
Row, Row, Row the Boat on Lake Argyle
After a late lunch and a little rest, we went down to the “swimming beach” (which also doubles as a rather rocky boat ramp) for a very pleasant dip. We had heaps of barra, a few cat fish, archer fish and a black bream around us as we took our swim.
Tomorrow against many people’s recommendations, we’ll head to Timber Creek where we will visit Gregory National Park which was part of another Durack cattle station.
It’s been a lovely couple of nights so far at Lake Argyle, which is a really pretty spot in the Kimberley. We arrived here quite late on Saturday as I needed to stop in Kununurra at the hospital before we came on here. I’ve been having trouble with my right eye and wanted to see someone about it before we headed here and on to Timber Creek and Victoria River Crossing where I knew there’d be no medical services (apart from a first aid box a lot of roadhouses keep).
I’d been to the hospital in Wyndham the afternoon before, but arrived late and the doctor had finished for the day. The only other way to see ANY doctor in the area was to go to outpatients in Kununurra in the morning. There would be no doctor at the hospital on Sunday as she’d be out at a community and there are no doctors in private practice in a town of 6000 plus us tourists. All pretty tough for the locals.
After a wait of 4 hours to see the doctor, although the eye was swollen, bloodshot and vision blurred, they couldn’t find what has been irritating it and me for 9 days.
When it was time for me to see the doctor, a nurse called a large aboriginal man in a wheelchair and me in at the same time. I followed him in, then asked another nurse where I should go. She said it was OK if I went in with my husband which gave him and me a good laugh!
The drive out to Lake Argyle was very pretty-especially when we turned off the highway and drove the 35ks in. Lake Argyle is Australia’s largest body of fresh water and was formed when the cattle station Argyle owned by the Durack family was dammed. The Durack family came to Australia from Ireland and eventually settled up here taking pastoral leases around Old Halls Creek, Wyndham and Kununurra. Mum borrowed all Mary Durack’s books on the family history from Warragul library when I was around 12 and as I read them all too, I was pretty excited to see the area.
Dead Horse Springs
Sunday we took a drive out to all the look-outs over the lake, then after lunch went out to the Durack’s Argyle homestead. It was rescued before the site was flooded and then rebuilt as a tourist attraction over the next two years. It was apparently hard work as the stone walls were over 13 inches thick and had to be numbered to get them back together. On the way back we stopped to look at Dead Horse Spring, took a drive along the Slipway Creek and finally stopped at an interesting looking rock. We thought there should be aboriginal rock paintings somewhere like there and there was. We found a cave with a very good crocodile, people and the stenciled hands you often see.
Ord River and Picnic Ground
We had thought about taking a boat tour, but decided the $150 each for a 5 hour tour was a bit pricey especially when we already had 3 days sailing in the Kimberley! Instead, we put our boat in the water and gave ourselves a 3 hour tour. We saw lots of birds, a croc and we had a couple of bites on our barra lure-it was beautiful out there and cost us $17 and two pieces of fruit!
Row, Row, Row the Boat on Lake Argyle
After a late lunch and a little rest, we went down to the “swimming beach” (which also doubles as a rather rocky boat ramp) for a very pleasant dip. We had heaps of barra, a few cat fish, archer fish and a black bream around us as we took our swim.
Tomorrow against many people’s recommendations, we’ll head to Timber Creek where we will visit Gregory National Park which was part of another Durack cattle station.
Thursday, August 16, 2007
El Questro
Dreamtime Statues Wyndham
Yesterday we'd planned to take a drive out to El Qestro but slept too late to do it. We had a swim, took a look around town, then took another swim instead. Wyndham has been the hottest place in WA for the past few days, so the pool is a wonderful spot to pass a couple of hours!
There's not much to look at in town-a spectacular look out that gives great views of the 5 rivers that meet below, some very large Dreamtime statues, a Big Crocodile and the largest Boab in captivity right here in our park. Thank goodness for the pool! We met our former Kununurra neighbours Graham and Ann at the lookout.
Today we managed to get out of bed early and drive out to El Qestro. We'd decided to do a circuit so headed out along the King River Road, taking a short cut over the salt flats to cut a few kilometres out. We'd followed an aboriginal family out of town, overtook them and drove on, calling in to look at Moochalabra dam that supplies Wyndham's water, and then an aboriginal rock art site. When we got to the King River Crossing, a couple of the aboriginal teenagers were fishing and the other three had lit a fire on the rocks and were obviously waiting for a feed of fish. It was a lovely place to spend a few hours.
King River Road then turned into Karunjie Track at the Wyndham Prison tree-these prison trees were used by police as overnight lock-ups mainly for Aboriginal prisoners.
Karunjie track was in better condition than we'd expected-recently graded and good travelling. No real need for a 4WD we reckoned. We passed through a number of gates and noticed a lot of them were new and the fences too. Then we started to see new signs telling us we were on Private Property and shouldn't drive on their salt flats. I opened a gate and noticed two 4WDs coming so waited for them before closing the gate-you get so sick of opening and closing them it's nice when someone does it for you. Anyhow, we both commented on them being hire vehicles.
A bit further on, we saw heaps of cattle trucks, 4WDs, cattle and figured they must be mustering. Then we noticed the horses, cranes and helicopter and figured out just before we saw the sign "Location" that we had stumbled on the very secret (well it is round here) locaton of Nic and Hugh's movie. I'm not star struck, but it has been so hush hush up here it felt like spotting the first whale for the season in Warrnambool!
The moment we past the movie location, the track became just that, a track. It was rocky, rutted, and the ruts were full of bull dust in lots of places.
Karunjie Track
We'd just spent 20 minutes crawling over small boulders like you find in a creek bed when we ran into a SA couple. We stopped for a chat and I was horrified when I asked how much more of this there's be and he answered "30ks". It'd taken them 2 hours to cover the 30ks and I was ready for home, but the boulders stopped and we were left with the rutted, windy rocky track again which was so much better than the creek bed. It was a very beautiful drive with the King and Pentecost rivers often on our right and the Cockburn range always on our left. There were lots of farm dams and lots of birds and cattle-it really was worth the drive.
The Gibb River Road seemed like a highway when we finally arrive there, and although we'd been told the road into El Questro wasn't so good, the grader had just been over it and it was good too. Finally at El Questro round 1ish, we discovered they wanted $15 per head for just being there so turned around and went out again. We figured we have seen plenty of gorges and although they are all different, they'd have to be good to beat the ones in the Bungle Bungle.
Pentecost River Crossing El Questro
Back on the Gibb River Road, we stopped for a latish lunch then called into Tier Gorge and Matteo's Rock. Tier Gorge was supposed to be a good spot for a swim and it was. We were so lucky to be the only one there to enjoy it too.
Tier Gorge
Matteo's Rock was another (very good) Aboriginal Rock Art Site.
Rock Art Matteo's Rock
We got home round 5 and called over to see the SA couple we met out on the road as they wanted to know when we got back, then we had another feed of Barra and chips for dinner for a treat.
Yesterday we'd planned to take a drive out to El Qestro but slept too late to do it. We had a swim, took a look around town, then took another swim instead. Wyndham has been the hottest place in WA for the past few days, so the pool is a wonderful spot to pass a couple of hours!
There's not much to look at in town-a spectacular look out that gives great views of the 5 rivers that meet below, some very large Dreamtime statues, a Big Crocodile and the largest Boab in captivity right here in our park. Thank goodness for the pool! We met our former Kununurra neighbours Graham and Ann at the lookout.
Today we managed to get out of bed early and drive out to El Qestro. We'd decided to do a circuit so headed out along the King River Road, taking a short cut over the salt flats to cut a few kilometres out. We'd followed an aboriginal family out of town, overtook them and drove on, calling in to look at Moochalabra dam that supplies Wyndham's water, and then an aboriginal rock art site. When we got to the King River Crossing, a couple of the aboriginal teenagers were fishing and the other three had lit a fire on the rocks and were obviously waiting for a feed of fish. It was a lovely place to spend a few hours.
King River Road then turned into Karunjie Track at the Wyndham Prison tree-these prison trees were used by police as overnight lock-ups mainly for Aboriginal prisoners.
Karunjie track was in better condition than we'd expected-recently graded and good travelling. No real need for a 4WD we reckoned. We passed through a number of gates and noticed a lot of them were new and the fences too. Then we started to see new signs telling us we were on Private Property and shouldn't drive on their salt flats. I opened a gate and noticed two 4WDs coming so waited for them before closing the gate-you get so sick of opening and closing them it's nice when someone does it for you. Anyhow, we both commented on them being hire vehicles.
A bit further on, we saw heaps of cattle trucks, 4WDs, cattle and figured they must be mustering. Then we noticed the horses, cranes and helicopter and figured out just before we saw the sign "Location" that we had stumbled on the very secret (well it is round here) locaton of Nic and Hugh's movie. I'm not star struck, but it has been so hush hush up here it felt like spotting the first whale for the season in Warrnambool!
The moment we past the movie location, the track became just that, a track. It was rocky, rutted, and the ruts were full of bull dust in lots of places.
Karunjie Track
We'd just spent 20 minutes crawling over small boulders like you find in a creek bed when we ran into a SA couple. We stopped for a chat and I was horrified when I asked how much more of this there's be and he answered "30ks". It'd taken them 2 hours to cover the 30ks and I was ready for home, but the boulders stopped and we were left with the rutted, windy rocky track again which was so much better than the creek bed. It was a very beautiful drive with the King and Pentecost rivers often on our right and the Cockburn range always on our left. There were lots of farm dams and lots of birds and cattle-it really was worth the drive.
The Gibb River Road seemed like a highway when we finally arrive there, and although we'd been told the road into El Questro wasn't so good, the grader had just been over it and it was good too. Finally at El Questro round 1ish, we discovered they wanted $15 per head for just being there so turned around and went out again. We figured we have seen plenty of gorges and although they are all different, they'd have to be good to beat the ones in the Bungle Bungle.
Pentecost River Crossing El Questro
Back on the Gibb River Road, we stopped for a latish lunch then called into Tier Gorge and Matteo's Rock. Tier Gorge was supposed to be a good spot for a swim and it was. We were so lucky to be the only one there to enjoy it too.
Tier Gorge
Matteo's Rock was another (very good) Aboriginal Rock Art Site.
Rock Art Matteo's Rock
We got home round 5 and called over to see the SA couple we met out on the road as they wanted to know when we got back, then we had another feed of Barra and chips for dinner for a treat.
Wednesday, August 15, 2007
Car Service and Move on to Wyndham
Monday we had the car serviced at the local Nissan Dealer. It's the first time we have taken it in to Nissan-we've used small local blokes previously. Our last 3 services were $150, $159 and $199. As this was a big one, we were expecting it to be pricey, but both almost passed out when it was nearing $700 (and that's after a 10& discount for being Big4 members!) No more Nissan dealers for our Nivarra!
Tuesday, we packed up and took the van down to an auto electrician to have the 7 pin plug replaced. That was a pleasant $50 and made us feel a bit better. Oh, and the insurance cheque for the broken TV arrived in Warrnambool on Monday according to our neighbour David, so that was good news too.
It was so sad leaving Kununurra-it's been a lovely park to stay in. The lake is a wonderful place to sit and watch the sunset of an evening and lots of people did just that. Everyone would wander out and sit or stand and chat, so like Port Smith, it's been very friendly.
We've back-tracked 100ks to come to Wyndham. It's out on the coast west of Kununurra and although the drive was beautiful, the town really isn't. It has a few local scenic attractions and is a good place to visit El Questro and a number of gorges from. The park is shaded and has a pool, so we have taken advantage of their "pay for three, stay 1 more for free" offer, but I think that will be enough. One of the caretakers tried to coax Russ into staying an extra night so we could go to the race meeting, but I think we spent our allowance on the car and van this month. This coast line is famous for some of the biggest salt water crocodiles found in Australia, and although there are plenty of mud crabs out there, those crocs and the big tides are probably going to deter us. The weather is warming up too-around 36 lately through the day and not going much below 22 at night. I don't mind the warm days now we are always near a pool, but I wish the nights were a little cooler.
Last night on the recommendation of people we'd met in Kununurra we had barra and chips for dinner. One of the park caretakers sets up a mobile food van between 5 and 7 pm to sell his barra and chips. That's all he sells and he claims that the $15 serve will be enough for two to share. He's right, we got 3 huge bits of barra in a lovely light batter and a huge serve of crispy chips for our $15. Russ saw him cut the filets fresh from a whole side of barra and it was almost the best fish and chips I have ever eaten-just about worth coming to Wyndham for!
We had planned to go out to El Questro today, but the place is so quiet after Kununurra, we slept through til after 8 and have been to slow getting up and going, so we've changed our plans and will try again tomorrow.
Tuesday, we packed up and took the van down to an auto electrician to have the 7 pin plug replaced. That was a pleasant $50 and made us feel a bit better. Oh, and the insurance cheque for the broken TV arrived in Warrnambool on Monday according to our neighbour David, so that was good news too.
It was so sad leaving Kununurra-it's been a lovely park to stay in. The lake is a wonderful place to sit and watch the sunset of an evening and lots of people did just that. Everyone would wander out and sit or stand and chat, so like Port Smith, it's been very friendly.
We've back-tracked 100ks to come to Wyndham. It's out on the coast west of Kununurra and although the drive was beautiful, the town really isn't. It has a few local scenic attractions and is a good place to visit El Questro and a number of gorges from. The park is shaded and has a pool, so we have taken advantage of their "pay for three, stay 1 more for free" offer, but I think that will be enough. One of the caretakers tried to coax Russ into staying an extra night so we could go to the race meeting, but I think we spent our allowance on the car and van this month. This coast line is famous for some of the biggest salt water crocodiles found in Australia, and although there are plenty of mud crabs out there, those crocs and the big tides are probably going to deter us. The weather is warming up too-around 36 lately through the day and not going much below 22 at night. I don't mind the warm days now we are always near a pool, but I wish the nights were a little cooler.
Last night on the recommendation of people we'd met in Kununurra we had barra and chips for dinner. One of the park caretakers sets up a mobile food van between 5 and 7 pm to sell his barra and chips. That's all he sells and he claims that the $15 serve will be enough for two to share. He's right, we got 3 huge bits of barra in a lovely light batter and a huge serve of crispy chips for our $15. Russ saw him cut the filets fresh from a whole side of barra and it was almost the best fish and chips I have ever eaten-just about worth coming to Wyndham for!
We had planned to go out to El Questro today, but the place is so quiet after Kununurra, we slept through til after 8 and have been to slow getting up and going, so we've changed our plans and will try again tomorrow.
Saturday, August 11, 2007
More on Kununurra
Yesterday we went out to the Mirima National Park for a look around. It's only a small park and is almost in the middle of town. It's most famous for being a small easily accesable version of the Bungle Bungle, and a moderately difficult walk to the lookout gives good views over town and the irrigation areas.
Next we took a drive round the irrigation areas and stopped at the two veg shops to stock up. I'm sad and sorry there are no other stalls at farm gates, but the prices were still OK. We bought bananas for $3 per kg, tomatoes for $2 kg, capsicum $3 kg, broccoli for $2 kg, a beautiful ripe, fragrant canteloupe for $1 ea, a big butternut pumpkin for $1 ea and a couple of good sized zucc 50c ea, and corn cobs 40c each (very nice for lunch when we got home). I also bought local chickpeas for $5 per kg-not sure if that's good, but I wanted to try them and the interesting recipes they came with!
After lunch we headed way up the river for a bit more croc spotting-didn't do as well as last time though. It's a beautiful part of the ord river and fun to take our boat up there.
Middle Springs
Today we went to the market-the same veg we bought yesterday were about half as much again so it's lucky we'd already bought them. After that we headed on a drive out of town to Valentine Pool (a lovely temp for a swim later on today I think), then Middle Spring and Black Rock Falls.
Black Rock Falls
There's not much water coming over the falls, but it was a lovely quiet cool spot to sit for half and hour and contemplate our navels. To make a round trip of it, we had to come home over the Ivanhoe Crossing on the Ord River. It looked pretty scary as the water rushed over the two concrete crossings, but Russell assured me it would be safe and it was. The first crossing was about 30 metres and the second around 100 and although they aren't particularly deep, the water goes over at an alarming rate (or so it seemed to me).
Ivanhoe Crossing
We have new neighbours moved in beside us, and it was nice to find out they have been living on the road for 22 months. We do cop a lot of "I don't know how you could do it" from lots of people who say they couldn't leave their house, garden, elderly parents, grand children, golf club, friends etc etc etc for so long si it's interesting to talk to someone who has done it for longer and is still loving it.
Thursday, August 09, 2007
Kununurra and Leon
The Lake Looking Towards Budda Sleeping
I got a call this morning from my friend and neighbour Janette to tell me our much loved work mate Leon lost his battle to cancer just before she rang. It's so sad, but inevitable. I'll remember him as a man who loved to look good-enjoying facials and waxing, and loved a good gossip!
We've spent 4 nights here now. It's a great place and we love our spot by the lake. Our neighbours are all nice-a couple from Townsville, a very elderly couple from Mildura and behind us a nice couple from Yinnar who know our good friend Henry!
The elderly couple are travelling in a motor home that he designs, his son builds and elderly mum cleans, details and makes the curtains for! They started making one in their retirement and now have a factory employing 10 people. They are nice motor homes and came second in Motor Home of the yeaar last year-with a few improvements, they think they should win this year!
Russ Home from Fishing
We are right beside the lake and it's a lovely place to take a couple of chairs down to and watch the sunset. We are woken every morning at 6am as a sea plane takes off over the very still lake and then all the boat cruises go by here as well.
Our days have been fairly quiet here-a little bit of sight seeing, a bit of shopping, catching up on cleaning of van and car, and paperwork-(sorting out my credit card and the insurance claim seem to have taken all day).
Sunset Looking Towards the Diversion Wall
I got a call this morning from my friend and neighbour Janette to tell me our much loved work mate Leon lost his battle to cancer just before she rang. It's so sad, but inevitable. I'll remember him as a man who loved to look good-enjoying facials and waxing, and loved a good gossip!
We've spent 4 nights here now. It's a great place and we love our spot by the lake. Our neighbours are all nice-a couple from Townsville, a very elderly couple from Mildura and behind us a nice couple from Yinnar who know our good friend Henry!
The elderly couple are travelling in a motor home that he designs, his son builds and elderly mum cleans, details and makes the curtains for! They started making one in their retirement and now have a factory employing 10 people. They are nice motor homes and came second in Motor Home of the yeaar last year-with a few improvements, they think they should win this year!
Russ Home from Fishing
We are right beside the lake and it's a lovely place to take a couple of chairs down to and watch the sunset. We are woken every morning at 6am as a sea plane takes off over the very still lake and then all the boat cruises go by here as well.
Our days have been fairly quiet here-a little bit of sight seeing, a bit of shopping, catching up on cleaning of van and car, and paperwork-(sorting out my credit card and the insurance claim seem to have taken all day).
Sunset Looking Towards the Diversion Wall
Tuesday, August 07, 2007
Kunanurra
It was a stunning drive from Turkey Creek to Kunanurra through some of the prettiest scenery we have seen in the Kimberly along the highway. It was a little bit spoiled knowing we had no brakes or tail lights on the van (we couldn't find Chook or anyone at the community to find him either!) but we took it a bit slower and got here just fine. Lucky the Nivara is such a solid vehicle and the van isn't over full of unnecessary stuff!
Kunnanurra is a beautiful little town 45ks from the WA/NT border. It was only established in 1960, so has a nice modern, clean feel to it.
Our Site from the Lake
I phoned ahead to try and book a site at Kona Lakeside Caravan Park, but like many parks up here, they don't take them. The assistant manager Jan I spoke to suggested though if we arrived around 9.30 am we should get a site. We did and were lucky to get one fronting Lake Kunanurra. It's a magic spot and on our first night we had drinks and nibblies down by the water with Karen and Jim who we met on the Horizontal Waterfall cruise.
Our 6am wakeup call the last two mornings has been a sea plane taking off about 50 metres from the van on the lake. It looks beautiful as it crosses the very still lake with its morning reflections. Better the planes than the noisy neighbours who woke us at 4.22 am in Turkey Creek!
We initially booked here for a week, but will have to extend that as we couldn't get the car in for a service until the 7th day of our stay. I don't think it will be a hardship though as there seems to be so much to see and do. This morning we are going to take our boat out on the lake for a private tour. The park has a boat ramp which meakes it all very easy. We had to take the boat off to fix the roller that fell of on the road after the first river crossing to the Bungles!
After the very sad little towns we came through to get here, it seems like an oasis and I guess it is with all the crops being grown through irrigation from the Ord River. There are 7 caravan parks in a town of 6000 and the place is full of tourists at the moment, but it has a different feel to Broome. I went to the only chemist yesterday to get a prescription filled and the wait was 1 1/2 hours-I've never had to wait that long.
Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban arrived by private plane yesterday to start filming here and Hugh Jackman also arrived (but by domestic service, flying economy!) so the place is really buzzing over that. He might be here in the park, but I bet Nic isn't! Rumour has it she is staying out on Riverfarm Road in a house owned by someone who owns a diamond store in town!
Pandanas on the Lake
This morning we put the boat in the water and took a tour of Kunanurra lake. It was a beautiful morning and we saw lots of birds and crocs on our 22k or so trip. So much cheaper than the commercial tours too.
Reflections of Elephant Rock
Kunnanurra is a beautiful little town 45ks from the WA/NT border. It was only established in 1960, so has a nice modern, clean feel to it.
Our Site from the Lake
I phoned ahead to try and book a site at Kona Lakeside Caravan Park, but like many parks up here, they don't take them. The assistant manager Jan I spoke to suggested though if we arrived around 9.30 am we should get a site. We did and were lucky to get one fronting Lake Kunanurra. It's a magic spot and on our first night we had drinks and nibblies down by the water with Karen and Jim who we met on the Horizontal Waterfall cruise.
Our 6am wakeup call the last two mornings has been a sea plane taking off about 50 metres from the van on the lake. It looks beautiful as it crosses the very still lake with its morning reflections. Better the planes than the noisy neighbours who woke us at 4.22 am in Turkey Creek!
We initially booked here for a week, but will have to extend that as we couldn't get the car in for a service until the 7th day of our stay. I don't think it will be a hardship though as there seems to be so much to see and do. This morning we are going to take our boat out on the lake for a private tour. The park has a boat ramp which meakes it all very easy. We had to take the boat off to fix the roller that fell of on the road after the first river crossing to the Bungles!
After the very sad little towns we came through to get here, it seems like an oasis and I guess it is with all the crops being grown through irrigation from the Ord River. There are 7 caravan parks in a town of 6000 and the place is full of tourists at the moment, but it has a different feel to Broome. I went to the only chemist yesterday to get a prescription filled and the wait was 1 1/2 hours-I've never had to wait that long.
Nicole Kidman and Keith Urban arrived by private plane yesterday to start filming here and Hugh Jackman also arrived (but by domestic service, flying economy!) so the place is really buzzing over that. He might be here in the park, but I bet Nic isn't! Rumour has it she is staying out on Riverfarm Road in a house owned by someone who owns a diamond store in town!
Pandanas on the Lake
This morning we put the boat in the water and took a tour of Kunanurra lake. It was a beautiful morning and we saw lots of birds and crocs on our 22k or so trip. So much cheaper than the commercial tours too.
Reflections of Elephant Rock
Saturday, August 04, 2007
Bungle Bungle
Saturday morning we got up around 6ish, took the boat off and headed out to the Bungle Bungles at 7. It's only 100ks, but took us 2 1/2 hours to get there. It's a sealed road for half the way, then it's unsealed through Mabel Station and into the National Park. The road is only open to high clearance 4WDs and after a day out there I can believe it!
The first (and worst) of 11 river/creek crossings is about 10ks in and a lot of people actually turn back there. I'm glad to say we made it through because the park has to be seen to be believed. I put it right up there with Ularu, snorkelling on the Great Barrier Reef and our sea plane landing at the horizontal falls for spectacular.
We spent 7 hours in the park and travelled about another 100 bone shaking ks to do 3 really wonderful and quite different walks. While the Bungle Bungles are probably best known for the "beehive" formations, we really enjoyed Echidna Chasm-a very high and ever narrowing chasm between the beautiful red rocks. Chathederal Gorge was beautiful too-a lovely walk through the gorge ending in a huge cathederal.
I was exhausted when we reached Echidna Chasm and refused to go the whole way-I sat on a rock and waited for Russ to go take a look then we'd head home. I had to put up with about half a dozen people telling me I should go to the end as it was spectacular.
Finally Russ arrived out and said we couldn't go home until I went in and saw it. I did and it was beautiful.
It's a very high chasm that gradually narrows to the end-in places where it twists and turns, you can't see the sky so feel like you are in a long narrow cave.
Anyhow, my not going in in the first place meant we were a bit late leaving the park and had to do the last and scariest water crossing in the dark-not very pleasant! Then we had to negotiate all the cattle and kangaroos on the highway back to Turkey Creek.
Friday, August 03, 2007
Warmun (Turkey Creek)
China Wall
We survived Halls Creek and are now in Warmun (formerly Turkey Creek) Roadhouse CP for a couple of nights. It's a tiny park and we are wedged in like sardines, but we need to stay here so we can go back 50ks to the turn off to Bungle Bungle NP in the morning-then it's 53ks in to the info centre.
Yesterday we took a lovely drive out of Halls Creek to China Walls, Old Town and Caroline's Pool. It is great to start and see the sort of scenery that leaves you thinking the Kimberly may actually be as beautiful as the Pilbara. We had come through 1000 ks of "Savanna" which mostly consisted of dead flat land covered with just over head-height shrubs. My sister called it "tedious" and I have to agree. Now we are in much more interesting country.
Caroline"s Pool
I left Halls Creek feeling very sorry for the locals. Although there are over 3000 of them, it isn't particularly well serviced. Most places it's size around here have a large (and cheaper) supermarket, chemist, hardware, sports store, etc, but the place is dismal. It does however have a pub and another liquor store and they seemed like pretty good places to stand outside and hurl abuse at each other!
On the way here, the electic plug that connects the van to the car and powers the brakes, lights and fridge fell out and the plug came off. Right now Russ is trying to get hold of "Chook" who lives at the community nearby and is something of a mechanic!
We survived Halls Creek and are now in Warmun (formerly Turkey Creek) Roadhouse CP for a couple of nights. It's a tiny park and we are wedged in like sardines, but we need to stay here so we can go back 50ks to the turn off to Bungle Bungle NP in the morning-then it's 53ks in to the info centre.
Yesterday we took a lovely drive out of Halls Creek to China Walls, Old Town and Caroline's Pool. It is great to start and see the sort of scenery that leaves you thinking the Kimberly may actually be as beautiful as the Pilbara. We had come through 1000 ks of "Savanna" which mostly consisted of dead flat land covered with just over head-height shrubs. My sister called it "tedious" and I have to agree. Now we are in much more interesting country.
Caroline"s Pool
I left Halls Creek feeling very sorry for the locals. Although there are over 3000 of them, it isn't particularly well serviced. Most places it's size around here have a large (and cheaper) supermarket, chemist, hardware, sports store, etc, but the place is dismal. It does however have a pub and another liquor store and they seemed like pretty good places to stand outside and hurl abuse at each other!
On the way here, the electic plug that connects the van to the car and powers the brakes, lights and fridge fell out and the plug came off. Right now Russ is trying to get hold of "Chook" who lives at the community nearby and is something of a mechanic!
Wednesday, August 01, 2007
Geike Gorge
After 3 days spent relaxing at the Fitzroy River Resort, we are now in Halls Creek. Against the advice of a lot of other travellers, we've decided on a two night stay here as we hate to push on too fast.
Halls Creek has had a lot of attention lately after a series of child abuse cases in the Aboriginal Communities and even now there is a big police presence in the tiny town. I met a woman travelling on her own though and she said she spent for days here and felt very safe.
Fitzroy Crossing was another tiny and predominately aboriginal town. Our resort was a few ks out and very nice-the pool was especially good on the 36 and 37c days we spent there. The resort and the other pub-the Old Crossing Inn-are both aboriginal owned and there is a lot of pressure (by local women) at the moment for them to stop selling take-away liquor for 12 months in the hope of sobering the blokes up. It seems to be an on going problem trying to get any money out of them for food and essentials!
Geike Gorge
We were exhausted after the archipeligo cruise so it was nice just to kick back and do next to nothing although we did enjoy an 8am (to miss the heat) boat trip and the short walk at Geike Gorge. Our neighbours Arthur and Thelma Burton from Heyfield were very pleasant as were a really nice couple Lee and Phillip from Adelaide. Our site was large and shady and we were able to wash the van!
Geike Gorge
After 3 days spent relaxing at the Fitzroy River Resort, we are now in Halls Creek. Against the advice of a lot of other travellers, we've decided on a two night stay here as we hate to push on too fast.
Halls Creek has had a lot of attention lately after a series of child abuse cases in the Aboriginal Communities and even now there is a big police presence in the tiny town. I met a woman travelling on her own though and she said she spent for days here and felt very safe.
Fitzroy Crossing was another tiny and predominately aboriginal town. Our resort was a few ks out and very nice-the pool was especially good on the 36 and 37c days we spent there. The resort and the other pub-the Old Crossing Inn-are both aboriginal owned and there is a lot of pressure (by local women) at the moment for them to stop selling take-away liquor for 12 months in the hope of sobering the blokes up. It seems to be an on going problem trying to get any money out of them for food and essentials!
Geike Gorge
We were exhausted after the archipeligo cruise so it was nice just to kick back and do next to nothing although we did enjoy an 8am (to miss the heat) boat trip and the short walk at Geike Gorge. Our neighbours Arthur and Thelma Burton from Heyfield were very pleasant as were a really nice couple Lee and Phillip from Adelaide. Our site was large and shady and we were able to wash the van!
Geike Gorge
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