Coffin Bay NP

Thursday (yesterday) we packed our lunch and headed out into the national park for a drive. We did about 60ks in 4WD along rough bush tracks, over dry lake beds, through the sand dunes and along 7 mile beach. We only gave up at the end of 7 mile beach when we couldn't see any other vehicle tracks-travelling by ourselves, we'd have hated to end up axle-deep in soft sand unable to get out!

Leaning on a "Road" Marker

7 Mile Beach


I especially loved being able to get out on the sand dunes and know no one else had walked on them (at least that day). I laughed when an emu and his 6 chicks ended up on the road in front of us at one stage. We were in a paricularly sandy spot where we couldn't stop and the bush either side was so dense he couldn't get off, so we all had to keep going at about 20ks ph until he and the kids could get off the track about 400metres later.

Coffin Bay Week 2

I've been a bit slack with the blogging, but Coffin Bay has been a really quiet time for us.

We booked for a week originally, but extended that to two . We now leave here on Monday 3rd of November.

The last 9 days have been spent fishing (not too successfully though) and relaxing. We've been twice into Port Lincoln to shop-it's a good shopping centre. We've been out for drives to various beaches and bays, did the Red Hat Societies car boot sale and the local market on Sunday, and today went out to check out the Coffin Bay National Park.

On one of our drives, we came across a tree heavily laden with quandongs, so stopped and picked a heap. I tasted one to see if they were OK and while they were tart, I figured they were ripe. I got home, spent ages finding a chutney recipe on the internet, then started to take the fruit off the seeds. I'd done a heap when I noticed all the fruit was infested with tiny maggots. Yuk, yuk, yuk!!!! So all my hard work went straight into the bin.




The national park today was stunning. It's only a couple of ks from town to the park gates, so we drove out for a look at all the stuff on the sealed road today. We left here round 2pm and were home just before 6. Next time, we'll go out and do the 4WD stuff. I didn't know the park existed before we got here anwas suprised at how beautiful the bit we saw today was. We saw lizards (blue tongue and goannas), emus and kangaroos, quite a few wild flowers and some lovely birds.

Coffin Bay

We drove from Venus to Coffin Bay this morning. I think it was about 250ks so just a nice drive really.

Actually, it's a lovely drive with views of the ocean, a number of salt and fresh water lakes, tiny towns, deserted stone cottages, dry stone walls and good and bad farm land along the way. We both really enjoyed it as we can't remember coming this way 6 or so years ago.

After partially setting up, we drove 45ks into Port Lincoln to do some shopping and collect some mail David had forwarded on to us. It was good to get into a Woolworth's and do some serious food shopping as we were completely out of fresh fruit and veg. We were pretty excited to buy a fresh duck and he'll be dinner tomorrow night. I love South Australia as they have great turkey and duck in the supermarkets.

Coffin Bay is beautiful. It's famous for oysters and the farms are within wading distance from the shore. Oysters are around $5 per dozen so we better have some while we're here. I'm not fussed on raw ones, but don't mind them Kilpatricked and my mate Peter has a smoked oyster recipe I'm keen to try. It looks like there is lots of water for us to explore and Russ has the trailer, boat and motor all sorted and ready to go in the morning. We've booked for a week with an option to extend.

Venus Bay

Full Moon Over the Mud Flats

I quite liked the park and little town on Monday, but by Tuesday with the wind blowing and the fish not biting, I took a real dislike to it and wanted to move on. I don't often get like that but I got like it bad!

Town Jetty at Dusk



On Wednesday, the wind eased we went out fishing and I caught three big whiting while Russ caught a good sized flat head.l It cheered me up a lot and I'm enjoying the place once again.

Southern Ocean from Woolshed Cave Talia Beach



Yesterday after a drive around town and then out to Talia beach and caves and Camel Beach, we went fishing for a coupld of hours and brought home 6 big whiting again. Russ caught 5 of them, I only caught one, but it was the biggest at 38cm! I also caught a really big salmon (the biggest I've ever caught) but we don't eat them much except to smoke them, so we let him go.
Back at the fish cleaing table here in the park, it seems we had a pretty good day and Russ had to chuckle to himself when the man opposite us stated that squid is no good for bait!

Southern Ocean


The town is situated on a narrow neck of land with the Southern Ocean and its big cliffs on one side and the large, shallow, peaceful bay on the other. It's really beautiful.

Venus Bay

Venus Bay

Today we left Streaky Bay and moved about 80ks to another little bay on the Eyre Peninsula-Venus Bay. It's quite a pretty place and we were here and set up early enough to get the boat out for an hour. It's literally a one minute drive down to launch the boat off the beach. We caught a trevally, a salmon and heaps of annoying little sand crabs, but didn't spot a whiting. Our neighbour across the way has given Russ all the info though so we'll see what tomorrow brings. We have the biggest site we have had ever which is a luxury.

Who Forgot the Bungs (Again)?

Yesterday (our last in Streaky Bay) the wind started up at 3 am (no sleep after that)and blew non-stop until 6pm. It didn't gust-it just blew. It reached speeds of 7okm per hour and was one of the most horrible days I've spent on this whole trip as it rattled and shook the van and filled it with dust. It was awful. Today is beautiful once again.

More Fishing

It was an even more beautiful day today so we got out bright and early (for us). We sat, and sat and sat and moved a few times before the tide changed and everything woke up. We wound up coming home with 7 big whiting, 7 crabs, 4 tommy ruff and a squid.

The water clarity was amazing today so the crabs didn't stand a chance as we could see them when they went into the pots. We could also see the cormorants diving through the water for fish beside us, a seal who tried to get our crab bait and two sting rays that tried as well. The dolphins were out feeding and a mother and her tiny calf spent quite a while near the boat. An wonderful day.

Then it was back to shore with fish to fillet and freeze and smoke, and crabs cook and pick. Todays catch will give us about 6 meals.

Crabs

I'm happy-we caught 4 crabs today. I hated seeing the last pack in the freezer get used up. Frozen crab is especially good in the enchiladas and Thai style crab cakes we make.

We also brought home 4 big whiting and two salmon and caught a couple of garfish that we used for crab and fish bait.

The weather has been beautiful today-about 24c and a light breeze.

Fishing

We've been able to get out fishing the last two days-it hasn't been warm, but the fish don't care.

Yesterday we caught (actually I caught) 3 big whiting which we turned into a tasty Layered Fish, Potato and Saffron Cooked Leek pie. Russ found the recipe in a New Idea he got from the laundry yesterday and cooked it up for our dinner last night. It was great.

Today we went out again and I'd caught 6 big whiting before Russ managed to catch a fish he could bring home. He went on to catch 3 more whiting, 2 salmon and a squid so it ended up a pretty successful few hours. Whiting was selling for nearly $60 per kg in Shark Bay at the fish shop and it wasn't as beautifully filleted, skinned and deboned as our are after Russ finishes with them.

We had 8 dolphin playing around us for a couple of hours while we fished. A lot of people think they scare the fish off, but I think fish are too stupid to care.

Lucky we are very careful with measuring of our fish as the Fisheries inspectors met us on the boat ramp and took a look at our catch. Yesterday it was the police checking boat trailer regos.

It was nice to get home and have a hot shower, but my hands feel like sandpaper (it happens catching whiting). I just went and booked an additional 4 nights here-the fish are biting and that will see the end of the school holidays which is always good.

Streaky Bay South Australia

It's lovely to be here our of season. This place is nuts in March/April, but the park is almost empty now and very nice.

We've been here 4 nights and managed to get out in the boat twice (to windy on the other days). Day one we caught two King George whiting and a few Tommy Ruff, yesterday we caught 6 whiting, 3 tommy ruff, a flat head and a squid. That squid is the first we've ever seen here and one whiting was 37cm which is quite big for one of those. I caught a crab on my line that we have never seen before. We think it's some type of spider crab but aren't sure-anyhow, we let him go.

Just as we finished fishing yesterday a light wind blew up, by the time we got back the couple of ks to the boat ramp it was a howling gale that hasn't let up all night! It's eased this morning a bit.

Fowler's Bay

Cliffs of the Great Australian Bight


We left Ravensthorpe on Monday morning and drove to Norseman. It’s a nice little park for an over night stop and it was much cooler than last time we were through here. I reckon it was over 42c when we arrived there around 6pm in March earlier this year.

Tuesday we drove about 540ks to Madurah Roadhouse, stayed the night then drove on yesterday to Nundroo Roadhouse. After just under 600ks with a strong side wind almost the whole way, we were exhausted, so it was a bit disappointing to find out they didn’t have a site left. We were thinking of staying two nights and driving out to Fowler’s Bay so it seemed a good idea when the woman at the roadhouse suggested we stay out there the night. It’s 32ks of unsealed but good road and we were lucky to get the last site here. We booked for two nights. Remind me never to stop at Madurah again-it was expensive at $24, they forgot to give me a token for the hot water in my shower (Russ didn’t need one) the sites were really uneven and there was no drinking water that we could find.

Fowler's Bay

Ruins of Yalata Station


I have been past the turn off into Fowler’s Bay a few times now and always wanted to see it. It’s one of the oldest settlements in SA and is the first or last (depending on the direction you’re travelling) “town” on the Nullabor. It’s got about two dozen houses, an old hall, a B&B, rental house, 2 blocks f flats, kiosk, caravan park and a long jetty that they seem to catch plenty of fish and squid off. The town is in danger of being buried under an amazing set of sand dunes-one house is about to be swallowed up and I’d think twice before signing a lease on the kiosk near by (it’s for sale).

A Portion of the Magnificent Sand Dunes at Fowlers Bay


We are really eking out the last of our fresh fruit and veg as we cross the border check outside Ceduna and have to hand over any left overs. I hate to give them anything and have squeezed lemons, deseeded chillies and caramelized onions and frozen them all!

Yesterday drove to Scott’s Beach and back across the birrida for great views of the dunes. Then we stopped at the extensive ruins of the Yalata Homestead-a station that once reached from the Head of the Bight to Streaky Bay.

Last night a family turned up quite late (after 7 and in the dark). It sounded like they were building a second caravan as they clattered and banged until almost midnight. I won’t miss the crowded park.

Windmills of Penong at the Eastern End of the Nullabor

This morning we drove to Streaky Bay stopping in Ceduna to shop and have a counter lunch. It was a lovely windless drive and lunch was good. Groceries seemed very, very cheap after the small towns of SW WA.
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