Friday, November 28, 2008

Southern Yorke Peninsula

Yesterday we left at 10am and did a big drive around a fair whack of the southern part of the Peninsula. We headed from here (Marion Bay) to Hardwick Bay and Port Minlacowie, then on to Minlaton where we had lunch in a great pub. They had rabbit on the menu but I couldn't bring myself to pay $23.95 at luch time so did without. I was really greatful when the chef told me where he gets his rabbits though!

After lunch We drove out to Port Rickeby then right back across the peninsula to Stansbury down to Edithburgh (the first settlement in the area) on to Port Mooworie and home by about 6 pm. It was a huge day out as we stopped at lots of beaches and bays and lookouts between towns. It's a lovely area, but sadly lacking in facilities in a lot of the little towns. I think the nearest decent shopping would be in Kadina a couple of hours away. Anyhow, nice to visit.

Today we slept quite late, did a load of laundry, called the butcher in Ardrossan and ordered two rabbits, then headed out after an early lunch. We drove North to Corny Point and The Pines stopping at beaches and bays and lookouts along the way. At one lookout over a beautiful bay, we saw a pod of about 12 dolphins surfing in on th waves. We watched as they played in the shallower water after that for quite a while before moving on. We were able to drive a lot of the way along the coastal roads in 4WD so it was a great afternoon out.

Tomorrow I pick up my two rabbits on our way to Nuriootpa-I don't think I'll sleep with the excitement of it!

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Marion Bay

Stenhouse Bay Jetty is almost 100 years old


Yesterday we drove just out of town to Innes National Park. It's not a big park, but it's lovely. We thought we'd spend 3 or 3 hours there, but wound up stopping and starting, walking out along boardwalks and good tracks to look at beaches and lighthouses etc and spent 6 hours doing it. Russ often says the Yorke Peninsula looks like a foot and if it does, we were right out on the toe nails at times. The coast line was quite spectacular in places with big cliffs and long white beaches. There are 40 ship wrecks around the coast and some of them are quite visible.

Chinaman's Hat


The park has three "towns" inside its borders-Stenhouse Bay which has a trading post and tavern and Inneston which is in ruins apart from some restored homes available for hire for short stays. There is a crayfishing fleet which operates from a small fishing village (Pondalowie) within the park too. It's a great place to fish for whiting amongst the moorings according to this CP manager but paying $6 park entry each time to get to it would stick in my throat a bit.

West Cape



We saw lots of emus and chicks as we walked, some very big kangaroos up close, and heaps of lizards, snakes and birds. The park has some lovely wild flowers at the moment too.

Dad and the Kids Inneston


The Old Post Office Inneston


Lake Inneston

Tuesday, November 25, 2008

Last Day in Wallaroo

Yesterday was our last in Wallaroo. We got out crabbing for an hour or so before the wind blew up (got 6 crabs and two squid). Then it was home for lunch before packing up the boat, trailer and fishing gear. We figure that's almost the last time we'll fish until we get to Tassie. We might find time to get out in Port Fairy, but there doesn't seem much to catch there.

The wind dropped in the late afternoon and the beach out the front was like a mill pond. It was amazing to see 7 of the ten prawn trawlers right out front (about 300 metres from shore) working. They have mostly sat in their pens for the two weeks we were in town so there must have been a huge school of prawns go by. They were actually trawling where we'd been crabbing in the morning and were out there amongst other tinnies enjoying the clam conditions. I always imagine any fishing boat out in huge seas, in all weather, and there they were.

I really enjoyed Wallaroo. It was a nice friendly town with beautiful old homes and public buildings and had enough services to satisfy anyone. If they didn't have it, Kadina was only about 8ks away. The beach out front the caravan park was lovely and just great for small kids and perfect to launch our boat from.

Today we drove to Point Turton intending to stay about 3 nights. I felt sick when we saw the crowded park and was thrilled when we were told they were booked out. It's only happened to us once before and I was happy to have it happen again. We drove on about 40ks to Corny Point and found they had no TV, phone or Internet reception, so drove on another 50ks to Marion Bay. The caravan park here is lovely-really nice clean facilities and almost empty. We haven't stayed in a busy park since we left Coral Bay on the Ningaloo Reef in WA in August and prefer not to if we can help it.

Sunday, November 23, 2008

Wallaroo

The past couple of days have been super windy, so we had to take the awning down and cook inside which feels odd. We've been unable to crab, so have gone out for a couple of drives which has been good-especially with the price of diesel dropping even more. It doesn't hurt quite so much to see the gauge go down now!

On Friday we drove out along the coast road to Tickera-it's not far, but the road is right alongside the sea the whole way and there were a number of shacks and pretty bays and inlets to stop and look at on the way. Tickera itself is a little town with 70 residents. You can see it's been bigger by the number of old, closed shops, school, post office, and couple of pubs that once were.

Yesterday we drove to Port Wakefield which is North on the Other coast. It's a bit bigger -600 people, but you can see it's also been bigger with its old pubs, railway station, and shops that are now homes. It's only 98ks out of Adelaide and I really would have liked to keep going to Port Fairy (we'd have been there in time for dinner!). We had a good look around a caravan builder's yard while we were there (he builds new and sells second hand) and came away thinking we still like our layout the best with our centre kitchen over the wheels. It certainly has worked well for us.

Today we got out for an hour and a half crabbing and brought home a big whiting, 1 squid and 7 crabs. We are going to turn that into a seafood platter of crumbed whiting and calamari, crab sushi (with extra meat to freeze) and garlic prawns (we bought just over a kilo from a fisherman in town yesterday). We'll be eating that while I watch the final of Idol.

Thursday, November 20, 2008

Yorke Peninsula

Lunch in Ardrosen Overlooking the Cliffs


This morning we got up and did our laundry, changed sheets and had a general tidy up, then made ourselves some cold roast lamb and beetroot jam sandwiches and headed off for a drive to the other coast.

We stopped in Kadina and bought ourselves some more beautiful tomatoes, cucs and eggs, and finally tracked down a stainless steel bolt we lost while travelling here from the Flinders Ranges. It's pretty important as it's one of two that holds the boat trailer onto the van as we travel. It took three shops to finally find it so we bought two!

We stopped in the very pretty town of Ardrosen for lunch-it was lovely sitting at a picnic table overlooking the jetty and a view of the beautiful red cliffs and sand. Then it was on to Port Vincent stopping off in tiny little beach side villages with shabby old holiday shacks (just the sort I'd love to own). It was great as we had the coast right beside us almost all the way, and it was even closer on the old coast road-a gravel road between Port Julia and Port Vincent. I really loved Black Point about 15ks out of Ardrosen and would like to go stay there in the little caravan park.

Port Vincent had some of the most beautiful old homes I've ever seen and the town is so clean and tidy-and they'll tell you too. The road into town has countless signs telling you they've won Australias tidiest town, SA tidiest town, SA best small town and won them all a lot more than once. The gardens with their roses, geraniums, oleanders and bougainvillea were all looking very good too

On the way home up the centre of the Peninsula, we stopped in Maitland to buy a lime for dinner tonight. We ended up buying two kilos of bacon for a price we couldn't refuse and a chunk of lovely leg ham.

Wednesday, November 19, 2008

Crabs and a shark

We caught 6 crabs this morning and a dog shark in one of the nets. The dog shark will be a nice feed of flake tomorrow night (roast lamb tonight, from a half side we bought today). I've had to visit a local chemist a few times as I've waited for a prescrition to come from my doctor inWarrnambool and have struck up a bit of a friendship with him-he is a keen crabber (and talker) too. He was suprised to know he could eat the dog shark and has thrown 3 back lately. Russ gave him detailed skinning and filleting instructions today.

Tomorrow we are taking a day off from the crabbing to take a look at the Eastern side of the peninsula.

Tuesday, November 18, 2008

More Crabs

Although it was cool and overcast, we decided to slip out the front for a couple of hours this morning. We brought home 11 good sized crabs and two squid, so it was very worth while.Some of those crabs are going to find their way into Crab &Preserved Lemon Risotto tonight.

Monday, November 17, 2008

Crabs

The Port Hughes Jetty


While there is a definate shortage of fish in the bay here, there's no shortage of crabs. We zipped out on day one and caught 5, day two 6, and day three 10 and a squid, so we are stockpiling a nice lot in the freezer. As far as fish, we have caught 3 puffer fish, one sand whiting and one undersized king george whiting. The place is well and truly fished out. Russ seems to have more luck fishing off the rocks for crab bait-we can't identify the fish he catches, but that isn't worrying the crabs.

The Beach at Balgowie


Today we decided to skip crabbing and go for a drive. We headed to Port Hughes where we walked out to watch people squidding and fishing very successfully, and Moonta, then on to Port Victoria for lunch, back to Balgowie, across to Kadina and home. We took another walk out along the jetty, then had lunch in a little cafe nearby at Port Victoria-they tried so hard to sell us the local delicacy whiting, but with a freezer full of our own, we settled on a burger for me and a steak sandwich for Russ.

We were amazed at the amount of wheat and other grains ready for or being harvested and saw some beutiful stone buildings in most of the towns. South Australia really knows how to build beautiful stone buildings!

Saturday, November 15, 2008

Walleroo

North Beach Walleroo


We've been four nights now in Walleroo on the Yorke Peninsula and are really enjoying it. The North Beach CP is great-cheap, clean, relatively empty, our site is right by the ablutions block and the path to the beach. It's about 300 metres by road around the park perimeter to that beach so launching the boat is easy. The beach is long, wide, shallow and weed free-it almost reminds me of Cable Beach in Broome but with whiter sand and minus the camels.

Walleroo is a lovely little town with a great shopping centre and 6 pubs. It's busy at the moment with trucks delivering different grains to the silos, but that doesn't worry us. Kadina 9ks away is bigger and has an excellent shopping centre although IGA here in Walleroo seems to be cheaper than Kadina's Woolworths.

We shopped in Kadina the other day and got ourselves lost on the way out. We ended up in a back street where we found a house with the most beautiful tomatoes, cucumbers and eggs for sale cheap. We'll be back over there in a day or two for more. Here in Walleroo, we saw they had fresh ducks for sale. We wanted one, but waited until the use-by date on them was up, and then got ourselves two big ducks for $9.99 each! I marinated and oven roasted one (maybe THE best duck I've ever cooked I think) then made stock from the carcass, and froze the other one for later on.

It's been windy-one night we were out after midnight securing our awning as it had blown out at the ends-I've never heard wind like it, but we survived. The last two mornings, we've got out in the boat for an hour or so crabbing, but have had to come in as the wind blows up. We've managed to bring home 6 and 5 crabs on those days though so have been very pleased with ourselves. Last night we had our favourite Garlic Baked Crab-it was delicious.

The park is cheap, the shopping seems cheap and best of all, for the first time since about April we are paying under $1.50 per litre for diesel. That's over $60 a tank full compared to the $2.35 we were paying in the WA goldfields. It makes a big difference to our budget.

Monday, November 10, 2008

Flying Over the Flinders Ranges



This morning we went for a 30 minute scenic flight in a 6 seater Cessna over the ranges from Wilpena. It was stunning-terrifying for me, but stunning. We flew around and over the pound, along various ranges and out towards Lake Torrens. I can really recommend doing it if you ever visit the Ranges. They had to chase a pair of emus off the runway before take-off which impressed a few foreign visitors. Wilpena pound (it's the second photo) is 17kms long, 8 kms wide and approximately 58kms around the outside. Mary's Peak is the highest point at over 1100 metres. It was a sheep and cattle station originally and you can see where they've attempted (but failed) to grow wheat in the centre of the pound. The only way to see the pound is by foot or flying over it.



It was a brilliant morning for flying and I wouldn't hesitate to do it again (although not tomorrow morning). Russ said he could tell I was nervous because every time I handed the camera forward to him, it was all hot and sweaty from me clutching it.

Bunyeroo Valley Lookout


After our flight, we headed home through Bunyeroo Valley, along the Brachina Gorge Geological trail and then finally the Moralana Scenic Drive and back to Hawker by 3pm. I have tried to take photos, but they don't do the scope of the place and the amazing colours any justice. I think you have to see it to believe it. It's teeming with wildlife-kangaroos, emus, lizards and huge numbers of birds, so is a great place for visitors.

Brachina Gorge

Sunday, November 09, 2008

Hawker

Shearer's Quarters Kanyaka Homestead


On Thursday after arriving here, it got hotter and hotter (35c) then we got a wind change. The lightening started and was really spectacular across the night sky. Next the thunder came and lastly the rain. It bucketed down. Fortunately we were able to get everything we leave outside into our very large en suite so all was OK. It rained on and off all night with the town eventually getting the highest rainfall in the state-25ml or an inch in the old measurement.

Friday, it rained until about 2pm, so apart from a drive around town and out to an old cemetery and railway station ruins, we had a very quiet day.

On Saturday morning we went and visited a local couple Hazel and Bernie. They have lived in Hawker all their lives and at 75 and 76 have been married for about 59 years. They were lovely and a real wealth of local knowledge. They took us for a drive round some of the back roads and showed us the damage done by a flood nearby two years ago.

In the afternoon, we took a drive out to the amazing ruins of Kanyaka Homestead and Woolshed. It was built about 130 years and has been deserted for about 120 years, but is in amazing condition considering.

Jarvis Hill Lookout


On the way back we stopped and saw some Aboriginal art in Yourambulla caves near town and then drove up Jarvis Hill for beautiful views over town and on to the hills.

Miner's Cottage Blinman


Today we drove out to Wilpena, Blinman, Parachilna, through Glass George, Parachilna George, visited Rawnsley Park Resort, stopped off at some amazing lookouts and just had a fantastic day. The weather was gorgeous (not too hot) and the crowds of early spring have disappeared-we are the only tourists in a huge caravan park in Hawker with a few semi-permanent Telstra workers the only other guests.

The Road to Parachilna


The Road From Parachilna to Hawker



Tomorrow, we're driving out to Wilpena again for a flight over the ranges at 9.45, then we'll drive on to some other spots we missed today.

Glass Gorge

Thursday, November 06, 2008

Port Augusta



Yesterday we went out to the Arid Lands Botanical Garden as it had been recommended to us. We were very disappointed with the place as it has really suffered with the drought. I would say 60% of the plants are dead (not just resting) and about 25% of the remaining ones were in flower. We filled in a couple of hours with a visit to the Matthew Flinders Red Cliffs Lookout that's in the park and a walk around the gardens. I can imagine it would be beautiful in better times.

Matthew Flinders Red Cliffs Lookout


I was a bit put off by signs advising what to do in the case of snake bites (King Brown and Black live in the park) and the fact that every time we stopped to read a sign, we had hordes of ants crawling over our feet, up our legs and biting us-not nice at all.

After lunch, we drove out to a couple of lookouts. One wass in an old tank and you had to climb about 80 steps to the top. I got half way up and started to panic as I could see through the very old wrought iron rungs and didn't like it one bit. I couldn't go up or down. In the end I went up slowly with Russ just ahead of me.

Water Tank Lookout


Next we took a drive out of town along Blanche Harbour which is at the top of the Spencer Gulf. It was so beautiful with the clear blue sky, bright blue water and the mountain ranges behind that. There would be well over 200 holiday houses along the road- tin shacks and mansions side by side on tiny blocks with jettys out front over the mangroves or tractors to launch their boats. What a magic spot. The houses were at the end of "courts" that came off the main road for just under 20ks and were identified by clusters of very imaginative signs up on the main road.

Today we packed up and drove just over 100ks through Quorn and out to Hawker where we'll stay for at least 4 nights. We are almost the only people in a huge caravan park and have a big en suite site for the time we are here. Tomorrow, we'll get out and have a look at the Flinders Ranges. It's a lot warmer here than anywhere else we've been for a couple of months-it's great, but the flies are pretty fierce so out have come the fly veils.

Tuesday, November 04, 2008

Port Augusta

Yesterday we drove from Coffin Bay to Port Augusta (actually for some reason I drove the whole way) stopping for a counter lunch in a pub down by the jetty at Port Neill. It was another lovely drive with the ocean on our right a good part of the way and wheat and canola about to be harvested on our left. We were tempted to stop and stay in Tumby Bay, but decided we can do that next year. It looks really beautiful.

We booked 3 nights in Port Augusta (an all time record for us) as we want to do some laundry and watch the cup today, then shop and visit the interpretive centre and arid dry land gardens tomorrow. I am the only one who sees the funny side of us not revieving channel 7 so not getting a cup coverage-something we would have been able to get in Coffin Bay! It's amazing how the tables have turned when Russ wants to watch something-he's out there twirling the antenna and trying it in vertical and horizontal positions-now he's off to the rec room to check that TV out. If it was me wanting to watch Idol.............

After we arrived and set up yesterday, Russ went to town while I played with my new internet dongle (faster and cheaper Yay!) to shop. He came home with a nice bottle of NZ Sav Blanc and nibbles for our cup watching and now we can't see it!!!!

Thursday we are off to Hawker and the Flinders Ranges for a few days.