Barcaldine and on to Lake Fairbairn

Lake Fairbain at 6.15 am


Monday and Tuesday we stayed in the small town of Barcaldine (we call it Barcy as we are practically local ;-) ). It’s quite a nice little town with lots of beautiful old buildings including the Masonic Lodge and Radio Theatre and 6 wonderful old pubs for a population of 1600. In its heyday, there were 16 pubs for a population of about 3000!

We stayed in a little park that was quite empty so were told to go find our site and feel free to spread out. We got ourselves settled under a lovely shady tree for the two nights. The park was cheap and amenities nice (and lots of them) but it had no pool which was a bit tough as it was hot. The park owners put on billy tea and damper every night and I have to say it was great-hot black tea and still hot damper spread with lashings of butter and golden syrup was to die for!

We spent a bit of a lazy day catching up on laundry and cleaning the van (changing sheets, washing the floor, cleaning the fridge) and a look at the very good little local museum. I really loved the story of the local goats used for meat, milk, racing, in carts to take kids to school and in larger teams to go wood collecting. Goats were common until the 1950s and yard gates had to be closed so they couldn’t get into gardens and washing on the line. One year the school had gone to much trouble to make a paper mache map of the world-it took months- and it was destroyed in a matter of minutes when someone forgot to close the school house door! They had bridles, saddles and cart harnesses on display. We also loved the tandem bicycle that belonged to the local fire brigade.

Now we are at Fairbairn dam 18ks out of Emerald. We’ve been here three of seven nights. The dam is used for local irrigation of crops (wheat, rice, sorghum), citrus orchards and table grapes and is also used for water sports, fishing and redclaw yabbying. The dam is only 18% full now and it would be a brave person who went out water skiing on it with its trees, fences and stock yards so visible (and obviously invisible) in the water.

Emerald is a lovely town. I was good to see Woolworths and Coles supermarkets again so we did a good shop to come out here to the dam. It’s also nice out here and we got a really good site-we are on the end of the row with quite a big lawn in front of us that looks over a nice view of trees and the lake. It makes it quite private, but we are still close to the BBQs, ablutions, pool and restaurant.

Day one we took a drive out to Ruby-vale and Sapphire in the centre of the gem fields. We really didn’t expect the fields to be as extensive as they are, or to see the number of dwellings in each town. Ruby-vale just wanders on and on and on through old and new diggings and every second house is a gem polisher or jeweler or is offering buckets of wash for you to fossick through. Buckets of screened wash start around $6 and it’s about $10 for “virgin wash”. I took one look at the town and decided I would like to live there. I figure we could fossick for the 5 cooler months of the year and travel the other 7. I loved the totally relaxed feel of the town-no need to mow or garden, no need to cart away your dead cars, need a new room? Buy the oldest caravan you can find or build it yourself from whatever material you have on hand. Cows and horses wander the main street and people mine in their front yards.

After our very enjoyable drive, we came back and put our yabby nets out. These yabbies are vegetarian, so you bait up the pot with a selection of goodies tempt them-lightly cooked potato and pumpkin, avocado and mandarin are favourites, but it’s worth trying anything. When Russ got back we got told we’d put them in the wrong place and wouldn’t catch anything which was a bummer!

There is a strange, unspoken rule that says checking of yabby pots must take place first thing in the morning however no one knows why when you ask them the reason. The whole park is awake around 5.30 as people get ready to go out and there is no point in trying to sleep further so up we got up too and went to look at ours-as predicted, not one yabby. We moved our pots to another spot and went home very sad. The lake certainly is beautiful as the sun comes up and the bird life wakes up-it was worth the early morning start just to see that.

Russ drove into town and had a crack in the windscreen repaired before it spread further, then came home and after lunch we hit the pool. The very noisiest and most active kids seem to have moved on, so the pool was a nice place to be at last. I can’t whinge too much though as it is school holidays and it’s nice to see them all having fun.

This morning we headed out just after 6am once again to check our traps. It was so exciting to find we had caught 12 good sized redclaw which we will cook for dinner tonight. I think we’ll marinate the tails lightly in sweet chilli, a little fish sauce, lime, coriander, ginger and garlic then BBQ them. I can hardly wait. Redclaw and WA’s marron are very closely related and are both considered pretty good eating. A platter of redclaw dishes for two in the restaurant here in the park is $70 so I’m happy to have our twelve.

Our traps are reset in the same places as the theory is the redclaws take a while to find the food so if you catch some, more will be on the way to the pots. One thing I found a bit awful is how much poaching of other peoples traps goes on-I can’t believe people could be so low, but apparently they are. We set our pots well in the trees and had to cross very shallow water (avoiding logs and old fences) so hopefully they’ll be OK.

Dinosaur Track Ways

Pretty, but not as Pretty as the Cawnpore Hills


Yesterday we drove out 110ks from Winton to see the dinosaur track ways at Lark Qarry. I didn't know what to expect, so was suprised by the HUGE building we came across.

Apparently 95 million years ago when the area was a lush, tropical lake, many small dinosaurs (chook and emu sized) came down to drink. A huge dinosaur came down to eat them and caused a stampede. The footprints were covered over the years by layers of silt and discovered in 1960. Study began in 1970 and the beautiful big building was put over them in 2002. There are 3200 sets of prints uncovered so far and evidence there are more to be discovered but they are leaving them as is in case the exposed ones deteriorate in coming generations! All pretty interesting.
Dinosaur Trackways


The drive out was good too and on the way back we took a detour to Nareen Jump Up (a local word for an escarpment) and the long waterhole which will be the scene of a yabby derby over the festival. It was amazing to drive all the say out to Lark Quarry and then realise we were actually up top on tableland-it was quite a long way down the jump up.

Last night we went over to have a "roast" dinner that the park puts on every night from May to September. Russ was a bit put out that we didn't get any pumpkin and not even the potatoes were roasted! They had a bush poet performing (she won the last festival's bush poet competition) and we wished we'd made a get away before she started. If she won, I'd hate to hear the others.

Today we drove to Longreach, did a little shopping, ate some lunch and headed on to Barcaldine (a further 105ks). We'd decided not to visit the QANTAS museum or Stockmen's Hall of Fame so thought we could give Longreach a miss. I had wanted to do a wing walk on the jumbo at QANTAS, but the cost of $80 put me off!

We are in a nice little park with not many staying, and were told to pick our site and feel free to spread ourselves out. They put on billy tea and damper every night and (joy oh joy) they have found a BUSH POET to perform. I'm sure if we don't go, they'll hunt us up to do so, so I think we're trapped again!

Driving along the road today we couldn't get over how many stupid kangaroos, wallabies, emus, sheep and birds of prey there must be because we've seen so much road kill it's unbelievable. And just as the stench starts to clear, you pass the next one. It's been a very smelly drive.

I was excited to pass the road to The Outer Barcoo (it's a poem by Banjo Patterson) today.

Winton

The ONLY Photo that Would Download

We travelled the rest of the way from Boulia to Winton yesterday. The narrow strip of bitumen continued on its way through some of the flattest and driest land I have ever seen. At one time we didn't see another vehicle for 120ks and only saw about a dozen the whole trip of 360ks.

Not to far from Boulia, I finally got my wish to see a herd of camels when we came across a large herd of very good looking camels just crossing the road ahead of us. We saw bolgas and the first emus we have seen since Exmouth and a few more cattle than the previous day.

I was starting to think we must have offended the people we met who had told us about this drive. They had said it was very beautiful, but I was starting to doubt them. About 130ks into the drive low mesa topped hills started to rise off the plain out of the heat haze. When we finally got to them, they were amazing-all the colours you can imagine-white, cream, yellow, orange, red, purple, maroon, black contasting with the red soil and the grey green of the trees.

We drove through about 160ks of these stopping to look and take photos. We had a near death experience doing so when we decided to go to the top of a lookout with the van on. I was driving and asked Russ which side I should head up on the circular track. he suggested the right and when the car stalled 2/3 of the way up, we were in all sorts of bother. We couldn't go up and couldn't roll back around the corner to the bottom and the break was just holding as it was. It looked like we might be stuck there forever (remember our phone doesn't work out there and not many cars passing). And if we weren't there forever because the breaks had failed, we would roll over the edge and the van would crumple like an aluminium can! So we engaged low ratio 4WD and clawed our way to the top. I was so happy with Russell and the car for saving us until he told me we still had to get down! I took photos of the amazing view of the mesa topped hills, but I think my hand was shaking too badly for them to work! I walked to the bottom of the hill and Russell managed to get us down (I walked in case he went over the edge and I'd have to get help). Anyhow we made it with only a good lesson learned-walk to the top of the lookout next time.

About half way from Boulia to Winton we arrived at Middleton Pub. That and a decrepit community hall are all there is to town (population 3 but two were away for the day). You can stand at one town sign and see the other about 200 metres away. We bought diesel, went to the toilet and had lunch there and not a car or truck went by in the whole hour. We were their only customers and had delicious steak sandwiches and chips and enjoyed a good chat with the publican's daughter who was visiting from Ayr.

The beautiful hills finally petered out and we were back in the flat again for the last 60ks into Winton. Winton is a lovely little town of about 1200 people-but obviously supplying a large area as well. I can't get over just how many shops and services there are compared to poor old Hall's Creek in WA with the same (mostly aboriginal) population! The town has very few new homes, so is full of beautiful old corrugated iron and weatherboard homes-many of them Queenslanders on the stilts with shutters on the verandas-really lovely.

The caravan park is nice-our site is shaded and not too far from the pool. The park puts on a roast meal every night so we might go along for one tonight. Tomorrow we are off out to Lark Hill conservation park to check out the dinosaur foot prints!

I took heaps of photos of our trip yesterday, but when I went to download them, the camera had had a malfunction and I couldn't do it. That's the third time in 5 years it's done it and it nearly made me cry to think of a whole beautiful (and at times scary) day lost!

Mt Isa to Boulia

Morning on Lake Moondarra

3 nights in Mt Isa was good-but more than enough. We took the boat out to Moondarra Lake and had a really good look around. There was lots of bird life and we saw catfish and turtles, but the only barra we saw were huge dead ones washed up on the shore. It was really sad to see.

We also visited the underground hospital and the fossil centre. The underground hospital was built in the second world war after Darwin was bombed-they thought with the mine, they would be the next target so built an emergency hospital underground. It only ever got used for air-raid drills and later on for nurses coming off night shirft to get some sleep in the heat of the day (before air-conditioning). It got closed up and forgotten for 40 years until they were rebuilding the present hospital and is really interesting as it was virtually intact including beds, linen, medicines etc.

At the fossil centre, we went into the lab with a paeliantologist to see how they deal with the heaps of fossils they find out at Lawn Hill and that was good too.

Kennedy Developmental Road


Today we drove to Boulia down Kennedy Developmental Road (part of Min Min Way). It was a single lane sealed road 300ks long with very limited passing opportunities through the Boulia Sire which is about 1/4 the size of Victoria with a total population of about 700. We passed through quite a few stations but only saw one homestead, one aborigiginal settlement and arrived in Boulia which has a population of abot 200. We got overtaken from behind by 1 car, passed by a few more than that and arrived in this tiny town that has a 4 1/2 million dollar aquatic centre!This is probably one of the most remote drives you can do in a regular vehicle, and though it was beautiful for the first half, it is dry and drought affected for the second. We saw more road kill than actual live cattle on the whole trip.

The caravan park here is tiny, but I recognised some dogs travelling with their owners from Bitter Springs in NT. I went over to say hello and it turned out the husband and wife (Julie and Garry) had worked with my sister many years ago at 3UL in Warragul.

This afternoon we went to the local museum and had an amazing tour of the whole thing with the man who has collected most of the stuff including some incredible fossils from nearby. It (the museum) is housed in the only stone (and original) house in town and is just fantastic. It made the whole trip here worthwile just to see it. After we left the museum, we saw 4 brolgas stolling up the main street!
Brolga in the Main Street


Oh, and the MinMin (that the road is also named after) is a unexplained light in the sky that has been seen from time to time.

Queensland

We left 3Ways Roadhouse where we overnighted and drove across the Barkly Tablelands to Camooweal which is 13ks inside the Queensland border yesterday. I can always find something to enjoy as we drive, but the Barkly is just about as flat and boring as it gets-if you've driven over the Nullarbor, it's exciting by comparison!

The roadhouse at Camooweal was cheap and so it should be-we had a terrible time with the power going off due to very slight overloading, the amenities were in need of a good clean and we were woken by a helicoptor landing in the truck parking bay at 6am this morning!

This morning, we drove to Mt Isa and were really pleased to see the nasty narrow road of 6 years ago has been replaced with a two lane smooth wonderful one. We've booked into a nice little park in the shadiest spot for 3 nights and found the Woolworths prices were cheaper than we remember in Perth!

Our site is really lovey, the van is parked between 2 huge Morton Bay Figs and has a dry creeekbed and rocky hill behind it. We should be shaded almost all through the day which will be good as it was 35c here today.

After we did our shopping and stacked it away, we drove out to Lake Moondara to see if we would like to put the boat in out there-it's beautiful with 90ks of shoreline, lots of pretty islands, a couple of swimming beaches and BBQs. We've got the boat off and will take a look around on it tomorrow then come back in for a swim and lunch.

Garry

Garry didn’t end up getting home until late on Friday night, so we saw him Saturday morning before we checked out (late).

What a nice man he’s grown into and how much fun did we have talking about everyone we knew in common in Warragul and Nilma. I’d forgotten he actually went to Nilma Primary School but was a few years ahead of me.

If you’d told me almost 40 years ago he’d invite me to stay at his house and kiss me goodbye, I’d have laughed in your face!

Oh and the man he was talking to in the park originally was Ian McKenzie who was apparently an Essendon football player.

More on Bitter Springs

Tonight will be our 4th night at Bitter Springs-it’s been really relaxing, so we decided to stay on and enjoy it. We get up, relax until lunch time then go to the springs for a few hours in the afternoon. It’s great.

We had some Melbourne people beside us for a couple of nights. He got talking to the caretaker and it turned out the caretaker knew someone he knew in Warragul, but it turns out I have known the caretaker since we were both kids in Nilma. I was good friends with his sister Diane Shanahan and he (Garry) was her older brother who scared me a bit! I seem to remember he treated us kids with the contempt an older kid did ;-) He’d left for Darwin to buy a new 4WD when I went over to introduce myself but I had a cuppa and lovely chat with his partner Sharon and a talk to him when he called her to say he’d arrived. He’ll be home tonight and we’ll catch up then (another reason we stayed another night).

The springs have been fantastic and you can’t believe how social it is. Everyone from this park eventually makes their way down there and it’s lovely just lazing around in the water talking.

This morning we went to the little local museum which was fairly interesting, then into the supermarket and on out to the original site of the Elsey Homestead and the cemetery. It was a nice drive out of town. It was good in the supermarket to see how kindly and politely the two girls working treated an old aboriginal man (he was obviously a bit worse for wear) who was buying grog with not quite enough money. I wish everyone was as tolerant as they were.

Bitter Springs (Near Mataranka)

Bitter Springs


After leaving Litchfield, we headed back to the Low Level CP in Katherine for a couple of nights. We id a bit of shopping, our laundry, saw Johnny the TV man (AGAIN) swam and headed 101ks on to Mataranka.

Six years ago, we stopped at Mataranka hot springs for an hour for a swim, this time we booked in to Bitter Springs 3 ks out of town for two nights. We met a man at Litchfield and he suggested we go to Bitter rather than Mataranka as it’s more natural and less visited. Arriving in town we saw there is a caravan park out beside it and when we saw the lovely little place decided on two nights.

We are about 500 metres from the springs and they really are beautiful-a bit smelly (with sulphur) but so nice. The water is 33c and so clear it’s unbelievable. Tomorrow we are going to take our masks and snorkels and drift down the spring looking for tortoises and fish. It’s a 200 metre drift and as the current is quite strong, you have to swim one way. There are steps or a ladder to get out along the way.

After that, we went out to the Roper River in Elsey NP and took a swim at a couple of places there. One was a series of small waterfalls over smooth rocks. The pools that the little falls formed were wonderful to lie in-just like natural spas. We finished the day with a last swim at Mataranka hot springs and a visit to author Jeannie Gunn’s Mataranka homestead-a replica of the original homestead that was built for the movie We Of The Never Never in 1981.

Tomorrow we plan to go yabbying and swimming and who knows-we might have to stay another night. We have two nice little dogs either side of us-Jodie (who is hurt if you call her “fat” (she’s nuggety apparently) and Junior, (a lovely little miniature Jack Russell) who has spent a lot of time with us tonight.

Editing to add-we have decided to stay another rnight after a lovely day at the springs yesterday. We took our snorkels and masks and floated down the spring to the bridge a couple of times. Other than that, we just lazed around in the main pool chatting to people-mostly guests in our park.

More on Litchfield and LaBelle Station

McReadies Billabong


Saturday we drove through the park to LaBelle Station for a cruise on McReadies’ Billabong. LaBelle is a working cattle station running around 30,000 head of cattle, they have several billabongs on the property and sea frontage as well. They run fishing and hunting trips (for feral pigs and buffalo) and have powered camp sites and a cottage to rent.

Until the morning of the tour, we were the only ones booked but eventually 10 of us did it which was just a nice number. We had to travel 7ks by 4WD bus through the property to the lagoon, but the bus had a flat battery. The station owner (our guide for the tour) got his Jeep wrangler out thinking he could give the bus a tow-no way, so he called his son (who was out in the helicopter spotting a particular croc that a restaurant in Darwin is building a big and very expensive tank for). He arrived in the helicopter and decided they needed to jump start the bus with the station’s grader. All very entertaining and added another hour to our tour.

We headed out via the enormous cattle yards and after a tour of them (very interesting) and some history of the station we went down to the Billabong. The bus was left running while we cruised on the billabong so the battery could re charge.

The billabong was beautiful, it’s lined with many types of water lilies and other water plants and we saw so many different birds it became hard to count them. The different arms we travelled along were edged with grassland and monsoon rain forest so it was always interesting. We saw lot of crocs-fresh water and salties, a wild pig, and heaps of wallabies resting under trees out of the midday sun.
A Salty Enjoying the Sun


As the big pig waded through the muddy shallows (mud it had created) water birds rode on its back to stay out of the crocs reach. The tour was really quite cheap and we were able to take our own lunch and drinks along which I guess helped keep the price down too.


We finished the day with a swim at Buley Water Holes on the way home. It’s a beautiful spot and even though a couple of busloads of people came and went in the hour we were there, there are lots of holes, so plenty of room for all to swim.

Litchfield

Flowering Gum

We’ve spent two full days in Litchfield National park and it’s been the best fun. Lots of people told us Litchfield is “better” than Kakadu and I can’t agree. It’s like comparing apples and oranges-they’re different! Kakadu is great if you’re prepared (and can afford it) to drive all the way out there, fly over it, boat down it or take long walks to see it. Litchfield is easy-there are heaps of waterfalls where you can swim, in easy walking distance and nothing seems to cost lots of money. If I was ever to come back up here though, I would come out to Litchfield just to swim.

Yesterday, we got up early (for us) and did 3 of the waterfalls-Green Ant Creek and Tjaetaba Waterfall, Wangi Waterfall and Buley Rockhole.

Plunge Pool Above Tjaetaba Waterfall


At Green Ant, we walked a 3k circuit to the falls and were able to swim in a small plunge pool above the falls-the falls and pools below are a sacred aboriginal site. We were the only people there for a long time and it was really a beautiful water hole. The walk was lovely-through shaded monsoon forest for about a third of the way and up a fairly easy track to the top of the falls.

Wangi is an easy to get to spot so it was very busy with tour busses, but it’s a large pool so there was plenty of room for all. We saw lots of very large sooty grunter (fish) as we swam and no crocodiles! The two falls into the pool are beautiful and it was amazing to swim over and find one is quite cold and the other is really warm-they obviously come from two very different sources.
Wangi Falls


Buley Rockhole was a series of rock holes (naturally) of varying sizes and depths. The water came over and through them pretty swiftly, so it was like swimming in a lap pool. It felt the most refreshing of all the places we swam because of the fast moving water.
A Couple of the Buley Rockhole Pools


We stopped quickly to see the magnetic termite mounds-there are lots of huge termite mounds up here but the magnetic ones are very clever. Unlike other termites that go underground in the heat, the magnetic termites build with the sun in mind and live in the front in the mornings then go to the back of the mound in the afternoon. The mounds (which look like big sheets of slate) face roughly north/south. Just in case we hadn’t had enough water and fun, we came home and had another swim in the park’s lovely little salt water pool!

Today we slept late-mainly because it turned really cold in the night and we didn’t sleep too well early on. We drove from here out to the Lost City-a group of weathered sandstone formations only accessible by 4WD. It was a good drive and they were reasonably interesting but I guess we were comparing them with the Bungle Bungle and they didn’t stand up to the comparison.
The Lost City


Next we drove into Blythe Homestead along another 4WD only track. It had the deepest water crossing we have done so far and was lots of fun. The homestead was really interesting-it had a book for us to read written mostly from an oral account gathered by a granddaughter from her family. The homestead was an out station of another larger station and was used as a base by the same family to mine tin.
Blythe Homestead


I was amazed to read that the first child to leave home was the third one at age 25. She (with the help of her mother) decided she would go and live in Adelaide River and at age 25 had never handled money as the kids (who worked from before sun up to after sunset) had never been paid. They went out to Blythe homestead and worked cattle and the tin mine and their father would drop them off supplies every few months-they started working the tin mine around age ten. It was amazing to read that her father delivered all but the first two children (he watched a midwife deliver those then delivered the rest himself) and they had 13 I think. They were taught it was weak to go look for help (especially a doctor) and they had some horrible accidents happen to them as children working out at Blythe Homestead.

After Blythe Homestead, we drove on to Wangi Falls for lunch and another lovely swim. While we were making our lunch of wraps (me cutting, Russell assembling) a nice couple sitting opposite started to talk. He commented we made a good team then asked us all about us (where were we from, how long had we been travelling) we were amazed when we asked him the same-they were from the Netherlands and had been sailing around the world for 4 years with their son. He was 9 months old when they left and is about to turn 5 in two days. They docked in Darwin, bought a $55 tent, rented a car for a few days and came out to see Litchfield. They had had a year in Brisbane at a bible college and bought an old commodore which they drove to Melbourne, but otherwise have been sailing the whole time. The longest they went without sighting land was 23 days after leaving the Galapagos Islands!

We had another swim at Wangi, then went on Tolmer Falls-very scenic, but no swimming-before heading into Batchelor to buy a few groceries and check for mail. I can imagine they would be amazing in The Wet.
Tolmer Falls


We are staying at Banyan Tree Caravan Park which is 13ks from Batchelor and just outside the national park gates. It’s run by a nice German family (3 generations I think) On night one, there was us and 3 other couples, night two us an one other and last night us and two. One of those (a couple from QLD) who are camped right behind us, are leaving today so by the time we get home from our cruise, it might be just us! The park is really nice, we have a huge site with shade on 3 sides, the ablutions block is almost new and pretty clean, the pool is new, and they have a good little store that does good take-away (by the looks). And all this for $18.50 a night! They get a lot of busses calling in, and right now, I think that is all that is keeping them alive. I think most of the visitors who visit the park come from Darwin on a day tour which is a shame as there is so much to see and do.

Darwin and on to Litchfield National Park

"Cathederal" Termite Mound

We spent 6 nights in Darwin and today moved on to Banyan Tree Caravan Park situated between Batchelor and Litchfield National Park. We’ve booked for 4 nights.

Darwin was hot and very humid. It seems the weather was perfect for a month then changed the day we arrived. It certainly hit me hard. I’ve been getting quite used to the hot weather but the added humidity was too much for me. I just went from air-conditioned caravan, to car, to shopping centre, then did that all in reverse and finally got in the pool.

We’ve been to Darwin before (6 years ago) so had done most things, but we went again to Mindil market for dinner on the night we arrived, took a walk around the city centre (not much has changed there in 6 years), went to the aviation museum to see their impressive B52 and other displays, took a 1.8k walk around the Howard Springs reserve, got a hair cut and did quite a bit of shopping. We also caught up with Ron and Dell (who we met at Lake Argyle) for lunch at StarCity Casino on Monday. It was a good cheap buffet lunch if you are ever in Darwin looking for a meal.

We did take the boat off and go fishing on Elizabeth River (off Darwin Harbour). As we were launching the boat at 7am, a local chatting to me said “I hope you bought insect repellant or the sand flies will eat you alive”. We had and applied it often, but they found spots up our shorts where we hadn’t applied it, or just bit us through the repellant. Russell was the worse of the two of us with literally hundreds of bites. The sand flies and the fact we didn’t get a fish bite put us off going out again.

I had planned to meet another of my recipe club’s members, but the heat and humidity put me off doing that too.

I was pleased to leave the park we stayed in this morning-one neighbour had a whingy kid who started early and didn’t let up and the other had two bored whingy bull terriers who didn’t let up either the whole time they were at work! The actual park was nice-small and well shaded with a nice little pool, but I couldn’t have stayed there for much longer.

We drove into Batchelor and had a (very quick) look around. There’s a Big4 in town, but I didn’t like the look of it so we came out here. The couple beside us stayed one night in the Big4 then came out here as the pool in there was full of mossie larvae, the place lacked shade, and they didn’t think the park was worth $11 more a night compared to this. This place has lovely big trees, big sites and the pool is sparkling clean so we are here for at least 4 nights (or until mail from Warrnambool and Perth arrives).