Monday and Tuesday we stayed in the small town of Barcaldine (we call it Barcy as we are practically local ;-) ). It’s quite a nice little town with lots of beautiful old buildings including the Masonic Lodge and Radio Theatre and 6 wonderful old pubs for a population of 1600. In its heyday, there were 16 pubs for a population of about 3000!
We stayed in a little park that was quite empty so were told to go find our site and feel free to spread out. We got ourselves settled under a lovely shady tree for the two nights. The park was cheap and amenities nice (and lots of them) but it had no pool which was a bit tough as it was hot. The park owners put on billy tea and damper every night and I have to say it was great-hot black tea and still hot damper spread with lashings of butter and golden syrup was to die for!
We spent a bit of a lazy day catching up on laundry and cleaning the van (changing sheets, washing the floor, cleaning the fridge) and a look at the very good little local museum. I really loved the story of the local goats used for meat, milk, racing, in carts to take kids to school and in larger teams to go wood collecting. Goats were common until the 1950s and yard gates had to be closed so they couldn’t get into gardens and washing on the line. One year the school had gone to much trouble to make a paper mache map of the world-it took months- and it was destroyed in a matter of minutes when someone forgot to close the school house door! They had bridles, saddles and cart harnesses on display. We also loved the tandem bicycle that belonged to the local fire brigade.
Now we are at Fairbairn dam 18ks out of Emerald. We’ve been here three of seven nights. The dam is used for local irrigation of crops (wheat, rice, sorghum), citrus orchards and table grapes and is also used for water sports, fishing and redclaw yabbying. The dam is only 18% full now and it would be a brave person who went out water skiing on it with its trees, fences and stock yards so visible (and obviously invisible) in the water.
Emerald is a lovely town. I was good to see Woolworths and Coles supermarkets again so we did a good shop to come out here to the dam. It’s also nice out here and we got a really good site-we are on the end of the row with quite a big lawn in front of us that looks over a nice view of trees and the lake. It makes it quite private, but we are still close to the BBQs, ablutions, pool and restaurant.
Day one we took a drive out to Ruby-vale and Sapphire in the centre of the gem fields. We really didn’t expect the fields to be as extensive as they are, or to see the number of dwellings in each town. Ruby-vale just wanders on and on and on through old and new diggings and every second house is a gem polisher or jeweler or is offering buckets of wash for you to fossick through. Buckets of screened wash start around $6 and it’s about $10 for “virgin wash”. I took one look at the town and decided I would like to live there. I figure we could fossick for the 5 cooler months of the year and travel the other 7. I loved the totally relaxed feel of the town-no need to mow or garden, no need to cart away your dead cars, need a new room? Buy the oldest caravan you can find or build it yourself from whatever material you have on hand. Cows and horses wander the main street and people mine in their front yards.
After our very enjoyable drive, we came back and put our yabby nets out. These yabbies are vegetarian, so you bait up the pot with a selection of goodies tempt them-lightly cooked potato and pumpkin, avocado and mandarin are favourites, but it’s worth trying anything. When Russ got back we got told we’d put them in the wrong place and wouldn’t catch anything which was a bummer!
There is a strange, unspoken rule that says checking of yabby pots must take place first thing in the morning however no one knows why when you ask them the reason. The whole park is awake around 5.30 as people get ready to go out and there is no point in trying to sleep further so up we got up too and went to look at ours-as predicted, not one yabby. We moved our pots to another spot and went home very sad. The lake certainly is beautiful as the sun comes up and the bird life wakes up-it was worth the early morning start just to see that.
Russ drove into town and had a crack in the windscreen repaired before it spread further, then came home and after lunch we hit the pool. The very noisiest and most active kids seem to have moved on, so the pool was a nice place to be at last. I can’t whinge too much though as it is school holidays and it’s nice to see them all having fun.
This morning we headed out just after 6am once again to check our traps. It was so exciting to find we had caught 12 good sized redclaw which we will cook for dinner tonight. I think we’ll marinate the tails lightly in sweet chilli, a little fish sauce, lime, coriander, ginger and garlic then BBQ them. I can hardly wait. Redclaw and WA’s marron are very closely related and are both considered pretty good eating. A platter of redclaw dishes for two in the restaurant here in the park is $70 so I’m happy to have our twelve.
Our traps are reset in the same places as the theory is the redclaws take a while to find the food so if you catch some, more will be on the way to the pots. One thing I found a bit awful is how much poaching of other peoples traps goes on-I can’t believe people could be so low, but apparently they are. We set our pots well in the trees and had to cross very shallow water (avoiding logs and old fences) so hopefully they’ll be OK.
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