We ended up really enjoying Poona and have added it to our ever expanding list of places to be revisited. The town has a community hall and whilst we were there they had a Melbourne Cup Day, line dancing, tai chi, a meal and drinks on Friday night, a market this morning and Tombolla on Sunday.
We went over for the meal last night-it's all done by volunteers and we had the choice of fish and chips, pork chops chips and salad, a hamburger or steak sandwich (our choice) for between $4.50 and $7. Good bottled wine was $2 a glass for white and $3 for the red. It was a great night and the locals were so friendly it was unbelievable. I think the Great Sandy Straight might be over fished, but Poona would be still OK with a bit more local knowledge. We managed to catch ourselves 6 fair sized whiting and a garfish yesterday, so were pretty happy with that.
Now we are in Maryborough with Riki (from Recipezaar) for a couple of nights. She lives in a lovely old Queenslander with high ceilings and a great outlook from the upstairs front porch. Just the place to sit and compute and drink coffee!
Saturday, November 10, 2007
Poona
Rain, rain, rain is all it’s seemed to do sine we arrived in Poona 4 days ago. It’s about 40ks outside Maryborough and quite a nice little place but we haven’t seen much of it with the rain. The good thing is the lack of sand flies due to the cooler weather-that really is great. We’ve been pretty bothered by them and have a huge selection of sprays, roll-ons and home made remedies in the hope that something works. When we went to Maryborough tourist information centre looking for directions, we were asked why we would want to come here and then told to be careful of the sand flies-after all the places we’ve been fighting them off, this seems no worse than anywhere else!
I bought a very expensive tube of Bushman’s repellant only to find I stuck to the seat I use in the boat (and it felt like waxing my leg to get it off) and all the plastic parts on our fishing rods we’ve touched have gone tacky. It can’t be nice stuff!
The park is here is small and mostly empty which is nice. We’ve actually had one whole side of the place to ourselves and have really spread out under the big shady trees. I hated the first couple of days though as the lawns were in desperate need of a mow and the shrubs needed attacking with a machete to get through to the toilets and laundry. I was happy to come back from a drive to Maryborough yesterday and find the owner had done it!
We did manage to get out to fish yesterday morning (up at 6 am to do it though) and were very happy when Russ caught us a metre long gummy shark and a large flounder. The shark has given us quite a few feeds of one of my favourite fish. It was great fun bringing it into the boat with our very light gear. Poona is on the Great Sandy Straight so is only 4ks across the water from Fraser Island. We’d been hoping we could take the boat over but the weather really has been against us, so we might have to do it next time round.
After we’d been fishing, we showered then headed into Maryborough for lunch and a visit with one of the women Riki that I’ve met through the recipe club Recipezaar. We’d never met in person before but had a great time. On Saturday we are leaving here and taking the van to her place for two nights before we move on to Trewantin near Noosa for another week. It’ll be lovely to spend some time with Riki.
This morning we took a drive to Tin Can Bay. It’s another pretty spot, but it was too wet still to get out and look round much. I was surprised at the extent of the pine forests around here-we passed through about 40ks of them on the way here.
I bought a very expensive tube of Bushman’s repellant only to find I stuck to the seat I use in the boat (and it felt like waxing my leg to get it off) and all the plastic parts on our fishing rods we’ve touched have gone tacky. It can’t be nice stuff!
The park is here is small and mostly empty which is nice. We’ve actually had one whole side of the place to ourselves and have really spread out under the big shady trees. I hated the first couple of days though as the lawns were in desperate need of a mow and the shrubs needed attacking with a machete to get through to the toilets and laundry. I was happy to come back from a drive to Maryborough yesterday and find the owner had done it!
We did manage to get out to fish yesterday morning (up at 6 am to do it though) and were very happy when Russ caught us a metre long gummy shark and a large flounder. The shark has given us quite a few feeds of one of my favourite fish. It was great fun bringing it into the boat with our very light gear. Poona is on the Great Sandy Straight so is only 4ks across the water from Fraser Island. We’d been hoping we could take the boat over but the weather really has been against us, so we might have to do it next time round.
After we’d been fishing, we showered then headed into Maryborough for lunch and a visit with one of the women Riki that I’ve met through the recipe club Recipezaar. We’d never met in person before but had a great time. On Saturday we are leaving here and taking the van to her place for two nights before we move on to Trewantin near Noosa for another week. It’ll be lovely to spend some time with Riki.
This morning we took a drive to Tin Can Bay. It’s another pretty spot, but it was too wet still to get out and look round much. I was surprised at the extent of the pine forests around here-we passed through about 40ks of them on the way here.
Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Miara CP
Our 6 nights at Baffle Creek was really good. We only managed to catch two mud crabs we could keep but at least we know we can sort of deal with them now. On the last morning, we decided to go fish at the mouth of the river. I almost backed out as I was getting really sick of sitting out in the sun catching nothing. At the last moment I decided to go as I wanted to take a look around the area and ended up catching our only fish-a 49cm grunter. The QLD grunter are a bream-like fish that is not related to WA’s nasty little bait stealers and are considered excellent eating (which it was!). We seasoned it, wrapped it in foil and cooked it on a hot plate over the camp fire pit along with some flat chips.
We are now at Miara Caravan Park an hour away from Baffle Creek and on the Kolan River mouth about 45ks from Bundaberg. The park is on the river and surrounded by cane farms. The nearest farm has a few cattle and two horses who wander the roads and paddocks of cane stubble whenever they like. They all seem to love the cane hay/straw and look as fat as mud. The park has a huge semi permanent section and most owners have erected elaborate protection over their vans and the whole site-they really are amazing. One very simple one with an old van somewhere underneath is for sale at $36,000.
After a one hour drive here on Monday and then setting up and getting the boat and trailer ready, we headed into Bundaberg for some lunch and shopping. We had an ok lunch t the local RSL club, drove round town checking out boat shops for motors and depth sounders, and did our grocery shopping at the largest Woolworths I’ve ever been in. Bundaberg (famous for sugar cane, macadamias, avocados, rum, ginger beer and other yummy things) is a really large and quite pretty city on the Burnette River. We’ll head back into town at least once more to visit a couple of things that were recommended to us.
Yesterday we headed out to do a bit of fishing-it seems the fishing is pretty light on so we were lucky to catch a fair sized bream and flat head which we’ll eat for dinner tonight. Russ is out pumping for yabbies right now so we can use them as bait later this morning.
The sea breeze comes in here and cools things down in the afternoon and it also keeps the sand flies away so I’m happy about that. My poor arms and legs are at least not getting any more bites. I got some non-drowsy anti histamines for the bites in Bundaberg and took them last night-I was non-drowsy until about 3 am!!!!!
We’ll be heading to Maryborough/Hervey Bay from here where we’ll spend about a week, then on to Noosa for another week we reckon
We are now at Miara Caravan Park an hour away from Baffle Creek and on the Kolan River mouth about 45ks from Bundaberg. The park is on the river and surrounded by cane farms. The nearest farm has a few cattle and two horses who wander the roads and paddocks of cane stubble whenever they like. They all seem to love the cane hay/straw and look as fat as mud. The park has a huge semi permanent section and most owners have erected elaborate protection over their vans and the whole site-they really are amazing. One very simple one with an old van somewhere underneath is for sale at $36,000.
After a one hour drive here on Monday and then setting up and getting the boat and trailer ready, we headed into Bundaberg for some lunch and shopping. We had an ok lunch t the local RSL club, drove round town checking out boat shops for motors and depth sounders, and did our grocery shopping at the largest Woolworths I’ve ever been in. Bundaberg (famous for sugar cane, macadamias, avocados, rum, ginger beer and other yummy things) is a really large and quite pretty city on the Burnette River. We’ll head back into town at least once more to visit a couple of things that were recommended to us.
Yesterday we headed out to do a bit of fishing-it seems the fishing is pretty light on so we were lucky to catch a fair sized bream and flat head which we’ll eat for dinner tonight. Russ is out pumping for yabbies right now so we can use them as bait later this morning.
The sea breeze comes in here and cools things down in the afternoon and it also keeps the sand flies away so I’m happy about that. My poor arms and legs are at least not getting any more bites. I got some non-drowsy anti histamines for the bites in Bundaberg and took them last night-I was non-drowsy until about 3 am!!!!!
We’ll be heading to Maryborough/Hervey Bay from here where we’ll spend about a week, then on to Noosa for another week we reckon
Saturday, October 27, 2007
Baffle Creek
Today is day 4 of 6 we’ll be spending at Baffle Creek which is roughly half way between 1770 and Bundaberg. It’s a lovely spot and there have never been more than 11 people here at any time, so I’ve had my wish for a bit of peace and quiet.
The area has been subdivided into mostly 40 acre blocks and we think this place is on two of those. There is 2 camping areas, one powered, one not and we are at the powered one. It has a few van sites, some camping sites, a couple of permanent tents and a couple of funny little cabins. The camp kitchen and toilet block are in the centre of all this. It is really good-I especially love the fire pit just beside it. Last night we cooked a chicken and vegetables in a cast iron Dutch oven over the coals. It was lovely to sit and watch it cook and tasted excellent too.
We were able to launch our boat in a small creek on the park, and then travel down it to Oyster Creek which then flows in to Baffle Creek. So far we have only fished and crabbed in Oyster, but today we have the boat out and plan to take it to Baffle for a look around it. It will be cheaper and faster for us to trailer it there. Our fishing and crabbing hasn’t been too spectacular. We are just using our drop nets to crab rather than the big expensive traps used around here. Russ says we have no more room for another net or trap and these ones are big. We’ve caught two crabs we’ve kept (I picked the meat and made sandwiches out of it both days) and yesterday although we caught 8, they all had to be returned. Two were enormous but female and have to go back here in QLD. We’ve caught quite a variety of fish-black bream, yellow finned bream, grunter, catfish, but all had to go back as they were too small.
The park owners left on Thursday for a few days away. A nice couple from Yeppoon is looking after the place and Cec has been great with trying to help us catch a mangrove jack which is the whole reason for this camps existence I think! He also taught us to throw our cast net so we can catch the live bait needed to catch them too. The net (which we bought in Darwin) came with instructions but neither of us could work out how to throw it. It’s amazing what one lesson with an expert can teach you!
Each afternoon, the owners feed the birds so there is an amazing variety of birds around here. There are shell ducks, bush turkeys, magpies, butcher birds, guinea fowl, doves etc, etc. Cec was a bit late feeding them yesterday, so every time we moved, they thought we must be about to feed them and all flocked around us!
The only down side to this place is the sand flies. Once again we are being attacked morning and night. I don’t seem to get as attacked as Russ, but he is better at not scratching the bites-I just can’t leave them alone
The area has been subdivided into mostly 40 acre blocks and we think this place is on two of those. There is 2 camping areas, one powered, one not and we are at the powered one. It has a few van sites, some camping sites, a couple of permanent tents and a couple of funny little cabins. The camp kitchen and toilet block are in the centre of all this. It is really good-I especially love the fire pit just beside it. Last night we cooked a chicken and vegetables in a cast iron Dutch oven over the coals. It was lovely to sit and watch it cook and tasted excellent too.
We were able to launch our boat in a small creek on the park, and then travel down it to Oyster Creek which then flows in to Baffle Creek. So far we have only fished and crabbed in Oyster, but today we have the boat out and plan to take it to Baffle for a look around it. It will be cheaper and faster for us to trailer it there. Our fishing and crabbing hasn’t been too spectacular. We are just using our drop nets to crab rather than the big expensive traps used around here. Russ says we have no more room for another net or trap and these ones are big. We’ve caught two crabs we’ve kept (I picked the meat and made sandwiches out of it both days) and yesterday although we caught 8, they all had to be returned. Two were enormous but female and have to go back here in QLD. We’ve caught quite a variety of fish-black bream, yellow finned bream, grunter, catfish, but all had to go back as they were too small.
The park owners left on Thursday for a few days away. A nice couple from Yeppoon is looking after the place and Cec has been great with trying to help us catch a mangrove jack which is the whole reason for this camps existence I think! He also taught us to throw our cast net so we can catch the live bait needed to catch them too. The net (which we bought in Darwin) came with instructions but neither of us could work out how to throw it. It’s amazing what one lesson with an expert can teach you!
Each afternoon, the owners feed the birds so there is an amazing variety of birds around here. There are shell ducks, bush turkeys, magpies, butcher birds, guinea fowl, doves etc, etc. Cec was a bit late feeding them yesterday, so every time we moved, they thought we must be about to feed them and all flocked around us!
The only down side to this place is the sand flies. Once again we are being attacked morning and night. I don’t seem to get as attacked as Russ, but he is better at not scratching the bites-I just can’t leave them alone
Thursday, October 18, 2007
Awoonga Dam and on to 1770
I haven't blogged for a few days-the internet reception was very por at Awoonga dam where we just spent the last 4 nights.
We were about to leave Kinka Beach and head to Biloela via Mt Morgan when we were advised not to take the road but to go over the "razorbak" with the van instead. Neither option sounded particularly pleasant so we decided to head to Agnes Water and The Town of 1770 instead. As we were driving though, we passed a sign to Awoonga dam (just 8ks off the Bruce Highway) so headed in there for a look. It was really beautiful and we decided to stay for 3 nights (extended that to 4) and have a crack at Barra fishing. Well, I've had my crack at Barra fishing and refuse ever to go again unless I go with an expert for about $350 for 6 hours.
Our neighbour did that and brought home some amazing photos of the big fish (over 1 metre and 26kgs) that he caught and released. We didn't even have a barra take a sniff at our lures and we tried a few sorts. It's all very scientific and I have decided I'm not a sport fisherperson-more your hunter and gatherer who is happy to come home with a feed. The fish in Awoonga are released most often as they taste too weedy-what's the use of catching a fish you can't eat?!
The dam and surrounds were very pretty and once again we got the million dollar view in the park with our awning facing the lake. The sun set off to one side and behind a large hill, so afternoons were especially nice.
Today we drove to Agnes Water, but decided the only park was a bit far out of town. We drove on to The Town of 1770 instead and chose the camping ground at the end of the road-that puts it on the corner of the estuary and the surf beach. Our site is at the back of the park, but is a lot larger than many of them and we have one of about 4 concrete slabs at our door which is nicer than straight sand. The park is apparently always full and this was the only site we could have for any length of time (5 days). We'd been advised to ask for a site away from the water and sand too as we'll have less trouble with our friends the sand flies!
We were about to leave Kinka Beach and head to Biloela via Mt Morgan when we were advised not to take the road but to go over the "razorbak" with the van instead. Neither option sounded particularly pleasant so we decided to head to Agnes Water and The Town of 1770 instead. As we were driving though, we passed a sign to Awoonga dam (just 8ks off the Bruce Highway) so headed in there for a look. It was really beautiful and we decided to stay for 3 nights (extended that to 4) and have a crack at Barra fishing. Well, I've had my crack at Barra fishing and refuse ever to go again unless I go with an expert for about $350 for 6 hours.
Our neighbour did that and brought home some amazing photos of the big fish (over 1 metre and 26kgs) that he caught and released. We didn't even have a barra take a sniff at our lures and we tried a few sorts. It's all very scientific and I have decided I'm not a sport fisherperson-more your hunter and gatherer who is happy to come home with a feed. The fish in Awoonga are released most often as they taste too weedy-what's the use of catching a fish you can't eat?!
The dam and surrounds were very pretty and once again we got the million dollar view in the park with our awning facing the lake. The sun set off to one side and behind a large hill, so afternoons were especially nice.
Today we drove to Agnes Water, but decided the only park was a bit far out of town. We drove on to The Town of 1770 instead and chose the camping ground at the end of the road-that puts it on the corner of the estuary and the surf beach. Our site is at the back of the park, but is a lot larger than many of them and we have one of about 4 concrete slabs at our door which is nicer than straight sand. The park is apparently always full and this was the only site we could have for any length of time (5 days). We'd been advised to ask for a site away from the water and sand too as we'll have less trouble with our friends the sand flies!
Friday, October 12, 2007
Kinka Beach
We've had 5 of our 7 nights at Kinka Beach so far-it's been great. We tried fishing out in the bay and only caught ourselves a handful of small fish. The handful of fish was enough to bait our crab pots and go mud crabbing on nearby Coorooman creek. All we got for our troubles was a big female (who has to be returned in QLD) and another nasty lot of sandfly bites. I was a bit luckier than Russ as I took the advice of our neighbours and wore long sleeved shirt, jeans, socks and shoes-not so many bites, but not very comfortable. I still have bites on my face, hands and exposed neck. Russ has bites all over. I hate sandflies!
We've been enjoying lower priced fruit and veg-local pines 50c (and not a bad size) avocados 70c, limes 20c each, sweet potato $1 per kg, beautiful hot red chillies 7.99kg.
Our neighbours here have been very nice-we are staying with Mick and Sue in Newcastle on our way through in a couple of months and will catch up with Marg and Trevor while they are in Portland over the Christmas holidays. Tonight the eight of us are having dinner together. Mick and Sue making the entree, Marg and Brian, Russell and I the mains and Marg and Trevor dessert.
The night before last, we went to a nice little Thai restaurant in Emu Park-they were very quiet, with only us, another couple and one lot of take away for the night. The owner (a NZer) and his Thai wife (the chef) ended up sitting eating their dinner chatting to us which was very interesting.
Yesterday we drove into Rocky to look at new boat motors. We've decided we need a larger one as ours just doesn't push the boat along fast enough so it takes forever to get anywhere (not a nice feeling if the weather blows up). Mariner looks the best so far for price and weight-some are up to 12 kilos heavier than the one we have now which would be unacceptable!
I'm allowed to tell everyone now that I am going to be a grandmother-Daniel and his girlfriend Verity are expecting a baby in April. I just saw the scan photos which makes it all seem more real! We'll be in Perth when the baby is born which is great.
On Sunday we are heading inland again to Biloela via Mt Morgan for a couple of nights. Then we'll head out to the coast and 1770. It depends on the fishing and the sandflies just how long we stay there, then it's on to Maryborough.
We've been enjoying lower priced fruit and veg-local pines 50c (and not a bad size) avocados 70c, limes 20c each, sweet potato $1 per kg, beautiful hot red chillies 7.99kg.
Our neighbours here have been very nice-we are staying with Mick and Sue in Newcastle on our way through in a couple of months and will catch up with Marg and Trevor while they are in Portland over the Christmas holidays. Tonight the eight of us are having dinner together. Mick and Sue making the entree, Marg and Brian, Russell and I the mains and Marg and Trevor dessert.
The night before last, we went to a nice little Thai restaurant in Emu Park-they were very quiet, with only us, another couple and one lot of take away for the night. The owner (a NZer) and his Thai wife (the chef) ended up sitting eating their dinner chatting to us which was very interesting.
Yesterday we drove into Rocky to look at new boat motors. We've decided we need a larger one as ours just doesn't push the boat along fast enough so it takes forever to get anywhere (not a nice feeling if the weather blows up). Mariner looks the best so far for price and weight-some are up to 12 kilos heavier than the one we have now which would be unacceptable!
I'm allowed to tell everyone now that I am going to be a grandmother-Daniel and his girlfriend Verity are expecting a baby in April. I just saw the scan photos which makes it all seem more real! We'll be in Perth when the baby is born which is great.
On Sunday we are heading inland again to Biloela via Mt Morgan for a couple of nights. Then we'll head out to the coast and 1770. It depends on the fishing and the sandflies just how long we stay there, then it's on to Maryborough.
Monday, October 08, 2007
Kinka Beach
We moved on to Kinka Beach yesterday. Kinka Beach is near Yeppoon (which is near Rockhampton). I have to admit I was very happy to see the ocean (South Pacific)after what seems like ages. Our caravan park is called Island View and our view across to Great Keppel which is very pretty. It's cooler but more humid here than Emerald but a sea breeze comes in every afternoon which is lovely. We have booked for 4 nights with an option to extend that to 7-I just hope the two VERY noisy couples behind us settle down a bit tonight as that'll be the decider for me!
Kinka Beach and the nearby town of Emu Park are lovely. Emu Park paticularly, feels like a cross between Yamba and Port McQuarie (both on NSW north coast) before those lovely seaside towns were developed out of recognition. The house blocks are big and the houses are old and comfy looking Queenslanders with wide verandahs and shutters over the windows. The town is quite hilly with lots of beautiful views over Keppel and other islands. It all seems so lush and tropical too after coming through the drought stricken outback. We are on the Tropic of Capricorn here (same as Coral Bay WA) so I guess it should feel tropical!
Our last morning at Lake Fairbairn was our best yabbying morning of all. We got 50 but brought home 40 really good sized ones which gave us enough meat to freeze for two good feeds. I would have like to stay on, but our site had been pre booked by others. I didn't miss leaving the very tight group of neighbours who hardly ever spoke to us. God I hate groups of people who have been going to the same place forever and don't bother with newcomers.
Kinka Beach and the nearby town of Emu Park are lovely. Emu Park paticularly, feels like a cross between Yamba and Port McQuarie (both on NSW north coast) before those lovely seaside towns were developed out of recognition. The house blocks are big and the houses are old and comfy looking Queenslanders with wide verandahs and shutters over the windows. The town is quite hilly with lots of beautiful views over Keppel and other islands. It all seems so lush and tropical too after coming through the drought stricken outback. We are on the Tropic of Capricorn here (same as Coral Bay WA) so I guess it should feel tropical!
Our last morning at Lake Fairbairn was our best yabbying morning of all. We got 50 but brought home 40 really good sized ones which gave us enough meat to freeze for two good feeds. I would have like to stay on, but our site had been pre booked by others. I didn't miss leaving the very tight group of neighbours who hardly ever spoke to us. God I hate groups of people who have been going to the same place forever and don't bother with newcomers.
Saturday, October 06, 2007
Storm on Fairbairn Dam
Sunrise on Fairbairn Dam
We’d had 9 fairly uneventful days here at Fairbairn Dam until yesterday. We’ve basically spent the days getting up around 5.30 am to go and check the nets, back for breakfast then housework, a swim and a trip into town or a drive occasionally. Russ has gone out and checked the nets in the afternoon a few times too.
Our catch had slowed down so yesterday morning we decided not to bait up then, but to come back in the afternoon, re-bait then move the nets. I decided I’d come for a change. It was warm and calm when we left and headed the 6 ½ ks across the lake to the dead trees where we have our nets set. There were clouds about, but the wind was blowing the other way and all seemed fine until we lifted the third of our 8 nets-all of a sudden (and I do mean sudden) the wind changed.
Our Nets are Through There
Fortunately we were amongst the drowned trees and were able to tie ourselves to one. The wind howled past us for about 10 minutes then we saw a sheet of rain crossing the lake towards us. It hit and the wind and rain and waves continued to pound and pummel us as we hung on the end of the rope. I’ve been out riding horses and motorbikes in bad weather but I’ve never been out in anything like it before and I’m so glad we weren’t out in the open water. Luckily we had a couple of plastic ponchos, a few biscuits and plenty of water. We also had our life jackets and flares but I’d forgotten my phone.
As we huddled there, we suddenly remembered our awning and the fridge, hotplate, chairs and towels were out. I said I didn’t really care about them so long as we were OK-they’re just stuff.
After about 45 minutes, the wind died down enough and we were able to make our way slowly back over the still choppy lake. We got back here to find the lovely young NZ couple next door had caught the awning just before it went over the van (the anti flap bars had already fallen out) and enlisted a few other neighbours to help. They’d realised our door wasn’t locked and packed all the other stuff inside. Our formerly quite standoffish neighbors (the NZers aren’t standoffish) all huddled around us and suddenly wanted to talk! Our van with our beautiful view of the lake was the one that copped the brunt of the storm, but trees here in the park have had leaves ripped off them and people had outdoor furniture thrown around.
Another couple also got caught out there and had to put into the bank for the whole time. They reckoned the wind was probably well over 75ks and gusting around at 100 occasionally-I felt like I was in a hurricane. Our neighbour (who has been coming here for 10 years) told us 5 people have died out on the lake in similar conditions. I was just happy I was out there with Russell because I know I’d have been beside myself with worry if I’d been home here along. Out there I felt uncomfortable but relatively safe tied to our tree.
We’d had 9 fairly uneventful days here at Fairbairn Dam until yesterday. We’ve basically spent the days getting up around 5.30 am to go and check the nets, back for breakfast then housework, a swim and a trip into town or a drive occasionally. Russ has gone out and checked the nets in the afternoon a few times too.
Our catch had slowed down so yesterday morning we decided not to bait up then, but to come back in the afternoon, re-bait then move the nets. I decided I’d come for a change. It was warm and calm when we left and headed the 6 ½ ks across the lake to the dead trees where we have our nets set. There were clouds about, but the wind was blowing the other way and all seemed fine until we lifted the third of our 8 nets-all of a sudden (and I do mean sudden) the wind changed.
Our Nets are Through There
Fortunately we were amongst the drowned trees and were able to tie ourselves to one. The wind howled past us for about 10 minutes then we saw a sheet of rain crossing the lake towards us. It hit and the wind and rain and waves continued to pound and pummel us as we hung on the end of the rope. I’ve been out riding horses and motorbikes in bad weather but I’ve never been out in anything like it before and I’m so glad we weren’t out in the open water. Luckily we had a couple of plastic ponchos, a few biscuits and plenty of water. We also had our life jackets and flares but I’d forgotten my phone.
As we huddled there, we suddenly remembered our awning and the fridge, hotplate, chairs and towels were out. I said I didn’t really care about them so long as we were OK-they’re just stuff.
After about 45 minutes, the wind died down enough and we were able to make our way slowly back over the still choppy lake. We got back here to find the lovely young NZ couple next door had caught the awning just before it went over the van (the anti flap bars had already fallen out) and enlisted a few other neighbours to help. They’d realised our door wasn’t locked and packed all the other stuff inside. Our formerly quite standoffish neighbors (the NZers aren’t standoffish) all huddled around us and suddenly wanted to talk! Our van with our beautiful view of the lake was the one that copped the brunt of the storm, but trees here in the park have had leaves ripped off them and people had outdoor furniture thrown around.
Another couple also got caught out there and had to put into the bank for the whole time. They reckoned the wind was probably well over 75ks and gusting around at 100 occasionally-I felt like I was in a hurricane. Our neighbour (who has been coming here for 10 years) told us 5 people have died out on the lake in similar conditions. I was just happy I was out there with Russell because I know I’d have been beside myself with worry if I’d been home here along. Out there I felt uncomfortable but relatively safe tied to our tree.
Monday, October 01, 2007
Lake Faibairn
Redclaw Yabby (beside Russ's foot!)
Yesterday we drove out to Springsure through farmland which was nice-it all seems so civilised now after the country we drove through to get here. Springsure is in the central highlands and after a look around town we drove out to a few lookouts which gave great views of the area. On the way into town, I saw a big rock that looked like the Virgin Mary in an alcove. I hadn't read the local info, but that's what they promote it as-I was pretty pleased with myself for spotting the likeness!
We drove on through a couple of stations and visited Wills grave and the site of a massacre (19 men women and children were killed by aboriginals) then back to the park. Russ did a bit of fishing and checked our yabby pots, I relaxed in the airconditioning as it was round 36c.
Yesterday we got 30 good sized yabbies, today we got about 25 but a few were very little. Last night we had a really nice redclaw pasta and I plan to try a curry with the next lot. We have booked a few extra nights so we'll freeze the next catches for later on. It's been lots of fun finding out what they like to eat-avocado is the hands down (claws down?) favourite so far with mandarine the next then pumpkin.
Saturday, September 29, 2007
Barcaldine and on to Lake Fairbairn
Lake Fairbain at 6.15 am
Monday and Tuesday we stayed in the small town of Barcaldine (we call it Barcy as we are practically local ;-) ). It’s quite a nice little town with lots of beautiful old buildings including the Masonic Lodge and Radio Theatre and 6 wonderful old pubs for a population of 1600. In its heyday, there were 16 pubs for a population of about 3000!
We stayed in a little park that was quite empty so were told to go find our site and feel free to spread out. We got ourselves settled under a lovely shady tree for the two nights. The park was cheap and amenities nice (and lots of them) but it had no pool which was a bit tough as it was hot. The park owners put on billy tea and damper every night and I have to say it was great-hot black tea and still hot damper spread with lashings of butter and golden syrup was to die for!
We spent a bit of a lazy day catching up on laundry and cleaning the van (changing sheets, washing the floor, cleaning the fridge) and a look at the very good little local museum. I really loved the story of the local goats used for meat, milk, racing, in carts to take kids to school and in larger teams to go wood collecting. Goats were common until the 1950s and yard gates had to be closed so they couldn’t get into gardens and washing on the line. One year the school had gone to much trouble to make a paper mache map of the world-it took months- and it was destroyed in a matter of minutes when someone forgot to close the school house door! They had bridles, saddles and cart harnesses on display. We also loved the tandem bicycle that belonged to the local fire brigade.
Now we are at Fairbairn dam 18ks out of Emerald. We’ve been here three of seven nights. The dam is used for local irrigation of crops (wheat, rice, sorghum), citrus orchards and table grapes and is also used for water sports, fishing and redclaw yabbying. The dam is only 18% full now and it would be a brave person who went out water skiing on it with its trees, fences and stock yards so visible (and obviously invisible) in the water.
Emerald is a lovely town. I was good to see Woolworths and Coles supermarkets again so we did a good shop to come out here to the dam. It’s also nice out here and we got a really good site-we are on the end of the row with quite a big lawn in front of us that looks over a nice view of trees and the lake. It makes it quite private, but we are still close to the BBQs, ablutions, pool and restaurant.
Day one we took a drive out to Ruby-vale and Sapphire in the centre of the gem fields. We really didn’t expect the fields to be as extensive as they are, or to see the number of dwellings in each town. Ruby-vale just wanders on and on and on through old and new diggings and every second house is a gem polisher or jeweler or is offering buckets of wash for you to fossick through. Buckets of screened wash start around $6 and it’s about $10 for “virgin wash”. I took one look at the town and decided I would like to live there. I figure we could fossick for the 5 cooler months of the year and travel the other 7. I loved the totally relaxed feel of the town-no need to mow or garden, no need to cart away your dead cars, need a new room? Buy the oldest caravan you can find or build it yourself from whatever material you have on hand. Cows and horses wander the main street and people mine in their front yards.
After our very enjoyable drive, we came back and put our yabby nets out. These yabbies are vegetarian, so you bait up the pot with a selection of goodies tempt them-lightly cooked potato and pumpkin, avocado and mandarin are favourites, but it’s worth trying anything. When Russ got back we got told we’d put them in the wrong place and wouldn’t catch anything which was a bummer!
There is a strange, unspoken rule that says checking of yabby pots must take place first thing in the morning however no one knows why when you ask them the reason. The whole park is awake around 5.30 as people get ready to go out and there is no point in trying to sleep further so up we got up too and went to look at ours-as predicted, not one yabby. We moved our pots to another spot and went home very sad. The lake certainly is beautiful as the sun comes up and the bird life wakes up-it was worth the early morning start just to see that.
Russ drove into town and had a crack in the windscreen repaired before it spread further, then came home and after lunch we hit the pool. The very noisiest and most active kids seem to have moved on, so the pool was a nice place to be at last. I can’t whinge too much though as it is school holidays and it’s nice to see them all having fun.
This morning we headed out just after 6am once again to check our traps. It was so exciting to find we had caught 12 good sized redclaw which we will cook for dinner tonight. I think we’ll marinate the tails lightly in sweet chilli, a little fish sauce, lime, coriander, ginger and garlic then BBQ them. I can hardly wait. Redclaw and WA’s marron are very closely related and are both considered pretty good eating. A platter of redclaw dishes for two in the restaurant here in the park is $70 so I’m happy to have our twelve.
Our traps are reset in the same places as the theory is the redclaws take a while to find the food so if you catch some, more will be on the way to the pots. One thing I found a bit awful is how much poaching of other peoples traps goes on-I can’t believe people could be so low, but apparently they are. We set our pots well in the trees and had to cross very shallow water (avoiding logs and old fences) so hopefully they’ll be OK.
Monday and Tuesday we stayed in the small town of Barcaldine (we call it Barcy as we are practically local ;-) ). It’s quite a nice little town with lots of beautiful old buildings including the Masonic Lodge and Radio Theatre and 6 wonderful old pubs for a population of 1600. In its heyday, there were 16 pubs for a population of about 3000!
We stayed in a little park that was quite empty so were told to go find our site and feel free to spread out. We got ourselves settled under a lovely shady tree for the two nights. The park was cheap and amenities nice (and lots of them) but it had no pool which was a bit tough as it was hot. The park owners put on billy tea and damper every night and I have to say it was great-hot black tea and still hot damper spread with lashings of butter and golden syrup was to die for!
We spent a bit of a lazy day catching up on laundry and cleaning the van (changing sheets, washing the floor, cleaning the fridge) and a look at the very good little local museum. I really loved the story of the local goats used for meat, milk, racing, in carts to take kids to school and in larger teams to go wood collecting. Goats were common until the 1950s and yard gates had to be closed so they couldn’t get into gardens and washing on the line. One year the school had gone to much trouble to make a paper mache map of the world-it took months- and it was destroyed in a matter of minutes when someone forgot to close the school house door! They had bridles, saddles and cart harnesses on display. We also loved the tandem bicycle that belonged to the local fire brigade.
Now we are at Fairbairn dam 18ks out of Emerald. We’ve been here three of seven nights. The dam is used for local irrigation of crops (wheat, rice, sorghum), citrus orchards and table grapes and is also used for water sports, fishing and redclaw yabbying. The dam is only 18% full now and it would be a brave person who went out water skiing on it with its trees, fences and stock yards so visible (and obviously invisible) in the water.
Emerald is a lovely town. I was good to see Woolworths and Coles supermarkets again so we did a good shop to come out here to the dam. It’s also nice out here and we got a really good site-we are on the end of the row with quite a big lawn in front of us that looks over a nice view of trees and the lake. It makes it quite private, but we are still close to the BBQs, ablutions, pool and restaurant.
Day one we took a drive out to Ruby-vale and Sapphire in the centre of the gem fields. We really didn’t expect the fields to be as extensive as they are, or to see the number of dwellings in each town. Ruby-vale just wanders on and on and on through old and new diggings and every second house is a gem polisher or jeweler or is offering buckets of wash for you to fossick through. Buckets of screened wash start around $6 and it’s about $10 for “virgin wash”. I took one look at the town and decided I would like to live there. I figure we could fossick for the 5 cooler months of the year and travel the other 7. I loved the totally relaxed feel of the town-no need to mow or garden, no need to cart away your dead cars, need a new room? Buy the oldest caravan you can find or build it yourself from whatever material you have on hand. Cows and horses wander the main street and people mine in their front yards.
After our very enjoyable drive, we came back and put our yabby nets out. These yabbies are vegetarian, so you bait up the pot with a selection of goodies tempt them-lightly cooked potato and pumpkin, avocado and mandarin are favourites, but it’s worth trying anything. When Russ got back we got told we’d put them in the wrong place and wouldn’t catch anything which was a bummer!
There is a strange, unspoken rule that says checking of yabby pots must take place first thing in the morning however no one knows why when you ask them the reason. The whole park is awake around 5.30 as people get ready to go out and there is no point in trying to sleep further so up we got up too and went to look at ours-as predicted, not one yabby. We moved our pots to another spot and went home very sad. The lake certainly is beautiful as the sun comes up and the bird life wakes up-it was worth the early morning start just to see that.
Russ drove into town and had a crack in the windscreen repaired before it spread further, then came home and after lunch we hit the pool. The very noisiest and most active kids seem to have moved on, so the pool was a nice place to be at last. I can’t whinge too much though as it is school holidays and it’s nice to see them all having fun.
This morning we headed out just after 6am once again to check our traps. It was so exciting to find we had caught 12 good sized redclaw which we will cook for dinner tonight. I think we’ll marinate the tails lightly in sweet chilli, a little fish sauce, lime, coriander, ginger and garlic then BBQ them. I can hardly wait. Redclaw and WA’s marron are very closely related and are both considered pretty good eating. A platter of redclaw dishes for two in the restaurant here in the park is $70 so I’m happy to have our twelve.
Our traps are reset in the same places as the theory is the redclaws take a while to find the food so if you catch some, more will be on the way to the pots. One thing I found a bit awful is how much poaching of other peoples traps goes on-I can’t believe people could be so low, but apparently they are. We set our pots well in the trees and had to cross very shallow water (avoiding logs and old fences) so hopefully they’ll be OK.
Monday, September 24, 2007
Dinosaur Track Ways
Pretty, but not as Pretty as the Cawnpore Hills
Yesterday we drove out 110ks from Winton to see the dinosaur track ways at Lark Qarry. I didn't know what to expect, so was suprised by the HUGE building we came across.
Apparently 95 million years ago when the area was a lush, tropical lake, many small dinosaurs (chook and emu sized) came down to drink. A huge dinosaur came down to eat them and caused a stampede. The footprints were covered over the years by layers of silt and discovered in 1960. Study began in 1970 and the beautiful big building was put over them in 2002. There are 3200 sets of prints uncovered so far and evidence there are more to be discovered but they are leaving them as is in case the exposed ones deteriorate in coming generations! All pretty interesting.
Dinosaur Trackways
The drive out was good too and on the way back we took a detour to Nareen Jump Up (a local word for an escarpment) and the long waterhole which will be the scene of a yabby derby over the festival. It was amazing to drive all the say out to Lark Quarry and then realise we were actually up top on tableland-it was quite a long way down the jump up.
Last night we went over to have a "roast" dinner that the park puts on every night from May to September. Russ was a bit put out that we didn't get any pumpkin and not even the potatoes were roasted! They had a bush poet performing (she won the last festival's bush poet competition) and we wished we'd made a get away before she started. If she won, I'd hate to hear the others.
Today we drove to Longreach, did a little shopping, ate some lunch and headed on to Barcaldine (a further 105ks). We'd decided not to visit the QANTAS museum or Stockmen's Hall of Fame so thought we could give Longreach a miss. I had wanted to do a wing walk on the jumbo at QANTAS, but the cost of $80 put me off!
We are in a nice little park with not many staying, and were told to pick our site and feel free to spread ourselves out. They put on billy tea and damper every night and (joy oh joy) they have found a BUSH POET to perform. I'm sure if we don't go, they'll hunt us up to do so, so I think we're trapped again!
Driving along the road today we couldn't get over how many stupid kangaroos, wallabies, emus, sheep and birds of prey there must be because we've seen so much road kill it's unbelievable. And just as the stench starts to clear, you pass the next one. It's been a very smelly drive.
I was excited to pass the road to The Outer Barcoo (it's a poem by Banjo Patterson) today.
Yesterday we drove out 110ks from Winton to see the dinosaur track ways at Lark Qarry. I didn't know what to expect, so was suprised by the HUGE building we came across.
Apparently 95 million years ago when the area was a lush, tropical lake, many small dinosaurs (chook and emu sized) came down to drink. A huge dinosaur came down to eat them and caused a stampede. The footprints were covered over the years by layers of silt and discovered in 1960. Study began in 1970 and the beautiful big building was put over them in 2002. There are 3200 sets of prints uncovered so far and evidence there are more to be discovered but they are leaving them as is in case the exposed ones deteriorate in coming generations! All pretty interesting.
Dinosaur Trackways
The drive out was good too and on the way back we took a detour to Nareen Jump Up (a local word for an escarpment) and the long waterhole which will be the scene of a yabby derby over the festival. It was amazing to drive all the say out to Lark Quarry and then realise we were actually up top on tableland-it was quite a long way down the jump up.
Last night we went over to have a "roast" dinner that the park puts on every night from May to September. Russ was a bit put out that we didn't get any pumpkin and not even the potatoes were roasted! They had a bush poet performing (she won the last festival's bush poet competition) and we wished we'd made a get away before she started. If she won, I'd hate to hear the others.
Today we drove to Longreach, did a little shopping, ate some lunch and headed on to Barcaldine (a further 105ks). We'd decided not to visit the QANTAS museum or Stockmen's Hall of Fame so thought we could give Longreach a miss. I had wanted to do a wing walk on the jumbo at QANTAS, but the cost of $80 put me off!
We are in a nice little park with not many staying, and were told to pick our site and feel free to spread ourselves out. They put on billy tea and damper every night and (joy oh joy) they have found a BUSH POET to perform. I'm sure if we don't go, they'll hunt us up to do so, so I think we're trapped again!
Driving along the road today we couldn't get over how many stupid kangaroos, wallabies, emus, sheep and birds of prey there must be because we've seen so much road kill it's unbelievable. And just as the stench starts to clear, you pass the next one. It's been a very smelly drive.
I was excited to pass the road to The Outer Barcoo (it's a poem by Banjo Patterson) today.
Saturday, September 22, 2007
Winton
The ONLY Photo that Would Download
We travelled the rest of the way from Boulia to Winton yesterday. The narrow strip of bitumen continued on its way through some of the flattest and driest land I have ever seen. At one time we didn't see another vehicle for 120ks and only saw about a dozen the whole trip of 360ks.
Not to far from Boulia, I finally got my wish to see a herd of camels when we came across a large herd of very good looking camels just crossing the road ahead of us. We saw bolgas and the first emus we have seen since Exmouth and a few more cattle than the previous day.
I was starting to think we must have offended the people we met who had told us about this drive. They had said it was very beautiful, but I was starting to doubt them. About 130ks into the drive low mesa topped hills started to rise off the plain out of the heat haze. When we finally got to them, they were amazing-all the colours you can imagine-white, cream, yellow, orange, red, purple, maroon, black contasting with the red soil and the grey green of the trees.
We drove through about 160ks of these stopping to look and take photos. We had a near death experience doing so when we decided to go to the top of a lookout with the van on. I was driving and asked Russ which side I should head up on the circular track. he suggested the right and when the car stalled 2/3 of the way up, we were in all sorts of bother. We couldn't go up and couldn't roll back around the corner to the bottom and the break was just holding as it was. It looked like we might be stuck there forever (remember our phone doesn't work out there and not many cars passing). And if we weren't there forever because the breaks had failed, we would roll over the edge and the van would crumple like an aluminium can! So we engaged low ratio 4WD and clawed our way to the top. I was so happy with Russell and the car for saving us until he told me we still had to get down! I took photos of the amazing view of the mesa topped hills, but I think my hand was shaking too badly for them to work! I walked to the bottom of the hill and Russell managed to get us down (I walked in case he went over the edge and I'd have to get help). Anyhow we made it with only a good lesson learned-walk to the top of the lookout next time.
About half way from Boulia to Winton we arrived at Middleton Pub. That and a decrepit community hall are all there is to town (population 3 but two were away for the day). You can stand at one town sign and see the other about 200 metres away. We bought diesel, went to the toilet and had lunch there and not a car or truck went by in the whole hour. We were their only customers and had delicious steak sandwiches and chips and enjoyed a good chat with the publican's daughter who was visiting from Ayr.
The beautiful hills finally petered out and we were back in the flat again for the last 60ks into Winton. Winton is a lovely little town of about 1200 people-but obviously supplying a large area as well. I can't get over just how many shops and services there are compared to poor old Hall's Creek in WA with the same (mostly aboriginal) population! The town has very few new homes, so is full of beautiful old corrugated iron and weatherboard homes-many of them Queenslanders on the stilts with shutters on the verandas-really lovely.
The caravan park is nice-our site is shaded and not too far from the pool. The park puts on a roast meal every night so we might go along for one tonight. Tomorrow we are off out to Lark Hill conservation park to check out the dinosaur foot prints!
I took heaps of photos of our trip yesterday, but when I went to download them, the camera had had a malfunction and I couldn't do it. That's the third time in 5 years it's done it and it nearly made me cry to think of a whole beautiful (and at times scary) day lost!
We travelled the rest of the way from Boulia to Winton yesterday. The narrow strip of bitumen continued on its way through some of the flattest and driest land I have ever seen. At one time we didn't see another vehicle for 120ks and only saw about a dozen the whole trip of 360ks.
Not to far from Boulia, I finally got my wish to see a herd of camels when we came across a large herd of very good looking camels just crossing the road ahead of us. We saw bolgas and the first emus we have seen since Exmouth and a few more cattle than the previous day.
I was starting to think we must have offended the people we met who had told us about this drive. They had said it was very beautiful, but I was starting to doubt them. About 130ks into the drive low mesa topped hills started to rise off the plain out of the heat haze. When we finally got to them, they were amazing-all the colours you can imagine-white, cream, yellow, orange, red, purple, maroon, black contasting with the red soil and the grey green of the trees.
We drove through about 160ks of these stopping to look and take photos. We had a near death experience doing so when we decided to go to the top of a lookout with the van on. I was driving and asked Russ which side I should head up on the circular track. he suggested the right and when the car stalled 2/3 of the way up, we were in all sorts of bother. We couldn't go up and couldn't roll back around the corner to the bottom and the break was just holding as it was. It looked like we might be stuck there forever (remember our phone doesn't work out there and not many cars passing). And if we weren't there forever because the breaks had failed, we would roll over the edge and the van would crumple like an aluminium can! So we engaged low ratio 4WD and clawed our way to the top. I was so happy with Russell and the car for saving us until he told me we still had to get down! I took photos of the amazing view of the mesa topped hills, but I think my hand was shaking too badly for them to work! I walked to the bottom of the hill and Russell managed to get us down (I walked in case he went over the edge and I'd have to get help). Anyhow we made it with only a good lesson learned-walk to the top of the lookout next time.
About half way from Boulia to Winton we arrived at Middleton Pub. That and a decrepit community hall are all there is to town (population 3 but two were away for the day). You can stand at one town sign and see the other about 200 metres away. We bought diesel, went to the toilet and had lunch there and not a car or truck went by in the whole hour. We were their only customers and had delicious steak sandwiches and chips and enjoyed a good chat with the publican's daughter who was visiting from Ayr.
The beautiful hills finally petered out and we were back in the flat again for the last 60ks into Winton. Winton is a lovely little town of about 1200 people-but obviously supplying a large area as well. I can't get over just how many shops and services there are compared to poor old Hall's Creek in WA with the same (mostly aboriginal) population! The town has very few new homes, so is full of beautiful old corrugated iron and weatherboard homes-many of them Queenslanders on the stilts with shutters on the verandas-really lovely.
The caravan park is nice-our site is shaded and not too far from the pool. The park puts on a roast meal every night so we might go along for one tonight. Tomorrow we are off out to Lark Hill conservation park to check out the dinosaur foot prints!
I took heaps of photos of our trip yesterday, but when I went to download them, the camera had had a malfunction and I couldn't do it. That's the third time in 5 years it's done it and it nearly made me cry to think of a whole beautiful (and at times scary) day lost!
Thursday, September 20, 2007
Mt Isa to Boulia
Morning on Lake Moondarra
3 nights in Mt Isa was good-but more than enough. We took the boat out to Moondarra Lake and had a really good look around. There was lots of bird life and we saw catfish and turtles, but the only barra we saw were huge dead ones washed up on the shore. It was really sad to see.
We also visited the underground hospital and the fossil centre. The underground hospital was built in the second world war after Darwin was bombed-they thought with the mine, they would be the next target so built an emergency hospital underground. It only ever got used for air-raid drills and later on for nurses coming off night shirft to get some sleep in the heat of the day (before air-conditioning). It got closed up and forgotten for 40 years until they were rebuilding the present hospital and is really interesting as it was virtually intact including beds, linen, medicines etc.
At the fossil centre, we went into the lab with a paeliantologist to see how they deal with the heaps of fossils they find out at Lawn Hill and that was good too.
Kennedy Developmental Road
Today we drove to Boulia down Kennedy Developmental Road (part of Min Min Way). It was a single lane sealed road 300ks long with very limited passing opportunities through the Boulia Sire which is about 1/4 the size of Victoria with a total population of about 700. We passed through quite a few stations but only saw one homestead, one aborigiginal settlement and arrived in Boulia which has a population of abot 200. We got overtaken from behind by 1 car, passed by a few more than that and arrived in this tiny town that has a 4 1/2 million dollar aquatic centre!This is probably one of the most remote drives you can do in a regular vehicle, and though it was beautiful for the first half, it is dry and drought affected for the second. We saw more road kill than actual live cattle on the whole trip.
The caravan park here is tiny, but I recognised some dogs travelling with their owners from Bitter Springs in NT. I went over to say hello and it turned out the husband and wife (Julie and Garry) had worked with my sister many years ago at 3UL in Warragul.
This afternoon we went to the local museum and had an amazing tour of the whole thing with the man who has collected most of the stuff including some incredible fossils from nearby. It (the museum) is housed in the only stone (and original) house in town and is just fantastic. It made the whole trip here worthwile just to see it. After we left the museum, we saw 4 brolgas stolling up the main street!
Brolga in the Main Street
Oh, and the MinMin (that the road is also named after) is a unexplained light in the sky that has been seen from time to time.
3 nights in Mt Isa was good-but more than enough. We took the boat out to Moondarra Lake and had a really good look around. There was lots of bird life and we saw catfish and turtles, but the only barra we saw were huge dead ones washed up on the shore. It was really sad to see.
We also visited the underground hospital and the fossil centre. The underground hospital was built in the second world war after Darwin was bombed-they thought with the mine, they would be the next target so built an emergency hospital underground. It only ever got used for air-raid drills and later on for nurses coming off night shirft to get some sleep in the heat of the day (before air-conditioning). It got closed up and forgotten for 40 years until they were rebuilding the present hospital and is really interesting as it was virtually intact including beds, linen, medicines etc.
At the fossil centre, we went into the lab with a paeliantologist to see how they deal with the heaps of fossils they find out at Lawn Hill and that was good too.
Kennedy Developmental Road
Today we drove to Boulia down Kennedy Developmental Road (part of Min Min Way). It was a single lane sealed road 300ks long with very limited passing opportunities through the Boulia Sire which is about 1/4 the size of Victoria with a total population of about 700. We passed through quite a few stations but only saw one homestead, one aborigiginal settlement and arrived in Boulia which has a population of abot 200. We got overtaken from behind by 1 car, passed by a few more than that and arrived in this tiny town that has a 4 1/2 million dollar aquatic centre!This is probably one of the most remote drives you can do in a regular vehicle, and though it was beautiful for the first half, it is dry and drought affected for the second. We saw more road kill than actual live cattle on the whole trip.
The caravan park here is tiny, but I recognised some dogs travelling with their owners from Bitter Springs in NT. I went over to say hello and it turned out the husband and wife (Julie and Garry) had worked with my sister many years ago at 3UL in Warragul.
This afternoon we went to the local museum and had an amazing tour of the whole thing with the man who has collected most of the stuff including some incredible fossils from nearby. It (the museum) is housed in the only stone (and original) house in town and is just fantastic. It made the whole trip here worthwile just to see it. After we left the museum, we saw 4 brolgas stolling up the main street!
Brolga in the Main Street
Oh, and the MinMin (that the road is also named after) is a unexplained light in the sky that has been seen from time to time.
Monday, September 17, 2007
Queensland
We left 3Ways Roadhouse where we overnighted and drove across the Barkly Tablelands to Camooweal which is 13ks inside the Queensland border yesterday. I can always find something to enjoy as we drive, but the Barkly is just about as flat and boring as it gets-if you've driven over the Nullarbor, it's exciting by comparison!
The roadhouse at Camooweal was cheap and so it should be-we had a terrible time with the power going off due to very slight overloading, the amenities were in need of a good clean and we were woken by a helicoptor landing in the truck parking bay at 6am this morning!
This morning, we drove to Mt Isa and were really pleased to see the nasty narrow road of 6 years ago has been replaced with a two lane smooth wonderful one. We've booked into a nice little park in the shadiest spot for 3 nights and found the Woolworths prices were cheaper than we remember in Perth!
Our site is really lovey, the van is parked between 2 huge Morton Bay Figs and has a dry creeekbed and rocky hill behind it. We should be shaded almost all through the day which will be good as it was 35c here today.
After we did our shopping and stacked it away, we drove out to Lake Moondara to see if we would like to put the boat in out there-it's beautiful with 90ks of shoreline, lots of pretty islands, a couple of swimming beaches and BBQs. We've got the boat off and will take a look around on it tomorrow then come back in for a swim and lunch.
The roadhouse at Camooweal was cheap and so it should be-we had a terrible time with the power going off due to very slight overloading, the amenities were in need of a good clean and we were woken by a helicoptor landing in the truck parking bay at 6am this morning!
This morning, we drove to Mt Isa and were really pleased to see the nasty narrow road of 6 years ago has been replaced with a two lane smooth wonderful one. We've booked into a nice little park in the shadiest spot for 3 nights and found the Woolworths prices were cheaper than we remember in Perth!
Our site is really lovey, the van is parked between 2 huge Morton Bay Figs and has a dry creeekbed and rocky hill behind it. We should be shaded almost all through the day which will be good as it was 35c here today.
After we did our shopping and stacked it away, we drove out to Lake Moondara to see if we would like to put the boat in out there-it's beautiful with 90ks of shoreline, lots of pretty islands, a couple of swimming beaches and BBQs. We've got the boat off and will take a look around on it tomorrow then come back in for a swim and lunch.
Saturday, September 15, 2007
Garry
Garry didn’t end up getting home until late on Friday night, so we saw him Saturday morning before we checked out (late).
What a nice man he’s grown into and how much fun did we have talking about everyone we knew in common in Warragul and Nilma. I’d forgotten he actually went to Nilma Primary School but was a few years ahead of me.
If you’d told me almost 40 years ago he’d invite me to stay at his house and kiss me goodbye, I’d have laughed in your face!
Oh and the man he was talking to in the park originally was Ian McKenzie who was apparently an Essendon football player.
What a nice man he’s grown into and how much fun did we have talking about everyone we knew in common in Warragul and Nilma. I’d forgotten he actually went to Nilma Primary School but was a few years ahead of me.
If you’d told me almost 40 years ago he’d invite me to stay at his house and kiss me goodbye, I’d have laughed in your face!
Oh and the man he was talking to in the park originally was Ian McKenzie who was apparently an Essendon football player.
More on Bitter Springs
Tonight will be our 4th night at Bitter Springs-it’s been really relaxing, so we decided to stay on and enjoy it. We get up, relax until lunch time then go to the springs for a few hours in the afternoon. It’s great.
We had some Melbourne people beside us for a couple of nights. He got talking to the caretaker and it turned out the caretaker knew someone he knew in Warragul, but it turns out I have known the caretaker since we were both kids in Nilma. I was good friends with his sister Diane Shanahan and he (Garry) was her older brother who scared me a bit! I seem to remember he treated us kids with the contempt an older kid did ;-) He’d left for Darwin to buy a new 4WD when I went over to introduce myself but I had a cuppa and lovely chat with his partner Sharon and a talk to him when he called her to say he’d arrived. He’ll be home tonight and we’ll catch up then (another reason we stayed another night).
The springs have been fantastic and you can’t believe how social it is. Everyone from this park eventually makes their way down there and it’s lovely just lazing around in the water talking.
This morning we went to the little local museum which was fairly interesting, then into the supermarket and on out to the original site of the Elsey Homestead and the cemetery. It was a nice drive out of town. It was good in the supermarket to see how kindly and politely the two girls working treated an old aboriginal man (he was obviously a bit worse for wear) who was buying grog with not quite enough money. I wish everyone was as tolerant as they were.
We had some Melbourne people beside us for a couple of nights. He got talking to the caretaker and it turned out the caretaker knew someone he knew in Warragul, but it turns out I have known the caretaker since we were both kids in Nilma. I was good friends with his sister Diane Shanahan and he (Garry) was her older brother who scared me a bit! I seem to remember he treated us kids with the contempt an older kid did ;-) He’d left for Darwin to buy a new 4WD when I went over to introduce myself but I had a cuppa and lovely chat with his partner Sharon and a talk to him when he called her to say he’d arrived. He’ll be home tonight and we’ll catch up then (another reason we stayed another night).
The springs have been fantastic and you can’t believe how social it is. Everyone from this park eventually makes their way down there and it’s lovely just lazing around in the water talking.
This morning we went to the little local museum which was fairly interesting, then into the supermarket and on out to the original site of the Elsey Homestead and the cemetery. It was a nice drive out of town. It was good in the supermarket to see how kindly and politely the two girls working treated an old aboriginal man (he was obviously a bit worse for wear) who was buying grog with not quite enough money. I wish everyone was as tolerant as they were.
Thursday, September 13, 2007
Bitter Springs (Near Mataranka)
Bitter Springs
After leaving Litchfield, we headed back to the Low Level CP in Katherine for a couple of nights. We id a bit of shopping, our laundry, saw Johnny the TV man (AGAIN) swam and headed 101ks on to Mataranka.
Six years ago, we stopped at Mataranka hot springs for an hour for a swim, this time we booked in to Bitter Springs 3 ks out of town for two nights. We met a man at Litchfield and he suggested we go to Bitter rather than Mataranka as it’s more natural and less visited. Arriving in town we saw there is a caravan park out beside it and when we saw the lovely little place decided on two nights.
We are about 500 metres from the springs and they really are beautiful-a bit smelly (with sulphur) but so nice. The water is 33c and so clear it’s unbelievable. Tomorrow we are going to take our masks and snorkels and drift down the spring looking for tortoises and fish. It’s a 200 metre drift and as the current is quite strong, you have to swim one way. There are steps or a ladder to get out along the way.
After that, we went out to the Roper River in Elsey NP and took a swim at a couple of places there. One was a series of small waterfalls over smooth rocks. The pools that the little falls formed were wonderful to lie in-just like natural spas. We finished the day with a last swim at Mataranka hot springs and a visit to author Jeannie Gunn’s Mataranka homestead-a replica of the original homestead that was built for the movie We Of The Never Never in 1981.
Tomorrow we plan to go yabbying and swimming and who knows-we might have to stay another night. We have two nice little dogs either side of us-Jodie (who is hurt if you call her “fat” (she’s nuggety apparently) and Junior, (a lovely little miniature Jack Russell) who has spent a lot of time with us tonight.
Editing to add-we have decided to stay another rnight after a lovely day at the springs yesterday. We took our snorkels and masks and floated down the spring to the bridge a couple of times. Other than that, we just lazed around in the main pool chatting to people-mostly guests in our park.
After leaving Litchfield, we headed back to the Low Level CP in Katherine for a couple of nights. We id a bit of shopping, our laundry, saw Johnny the TV man (AGAIN) swam and headed 101ks on to Mataranka.
Six years ago, we stopped at Mataranka hot springs for an hour for a swim, this time we booked in to Bitter Springs 3 ks out of town for two nights. We met a man at Litchfield and he suggested we go to Bitter rather than Mataranka as it’s more natural and less visited. Arriving in town we saw there is a caravan park out beside it and when we saw the lovely little place decided on two nights.
We are about 500 metres from the springs and they really are beautiful-a bit smelly (with sulphur) but so nice. The water is 33c and so clear it’s unbelievable. Tomorrow we are going to take our masks and snorkels and drift down the spring looking for tortoises and fish. It’s a 200 metre drift and as the current is quite strong, you have to swim one way. There are steps or a ladder to get out along the way.
After that, we went out to the Roper River in Elsey NP and took a swim at a couple of places there. One was a series of small waterfalls over smooth rocks. The pools that the little falls formed were wonderful to lie in-just like natural spas. We finished the day with a last swim at Mataranka hot springs and a visit to author Jeannie Gunn’s Mataranka homestead-a replica of the original homestead that was built for the movie We Of The Never Never in 1981.
Tomorrow we plan to go yabbying and swimming and who knows-we might have to stay another night. We have two nice little dogs either side of us-Jodie (who is hurt if you call her “fat” (she’s nuggety apparently) and Junior, (a lovely little miniature Jack Russell) who has spent a lot of time with us tonight.
Editing to add-we have decided to stay another rnight after a lovely day at the springs yesterday. We took our snorkels and masks and floated down the spring to the bridge a couple of times. Other than that, we just lazed around in the main pool chatting to people-mostly guests in our park.
Sunday, September 09, 2007
More on Litchfield and LaBelle Station
McReadies Billabong
Saturday we drove through the park to LaBelle Station for a cruise on McReadies’ Billabong. LaBelle is a working cattle station running around 30,000 head of cattle, they have several billabongs on the property and sea frontage as well. They run fishing and hunting trips (for feral pigs and buffalo) and have powered camp sites and a cottage to rent.
Until the morning of the tour, we were the only ones booked but eventually 10 of us did it which was just a nice number. We had to travel 7ks by 4WD bus through the property to the lagoon, but the bus had a flat battery. The station owner (our guide for the tour) got his Jeep wrangler out thinking he could give the bus a tow-no way, so he called his son (who was out in the helicopter spotting a particular croc that a restaurant in Darwin is building a big and very expensive tank for). He arrived in the helicopter and decided they needed to jump start the bus with the station’s grader. All very entertaining and added another hour to our tour.
We headed out via the enormous cattle yards and after a tour of them (very interesting) and some history of the station we went down to the Billabong. The bus was left running while we cruised on the billabong so the battery could re charge.
The billabong was beautiful, it’s lined with many types of water lilies and other water plants and we saw so many different birds it became hard to count them. The different arms we travelled along were edged with grassland and monsoon rain forest so it was always interesting. We saw lot of crocs-fresh water and salties, a wild pig, and heaps of wallabies resting under trees out of the midday sun.
A Salty Enjoying the Sun
As the big pig waded through the muddy shallows (mud it had created) water birds rode on its back to stay out of the crocs reach. The tour was really quite cheap and we were able to take our own lunch and drinks along which I guess helped keep the price down too.
We finished the day with a swim at Buley Water Holes on the way home. It’s a beautiful spot and even though a couple of busloads of people came and went in the hour we were there, there are lots of holes, so plenty of room for all to swim.
Saturday we drove through the park to LaBelle Station for a cruise on McReadies’ Billabong. LaBelle is a working cattle station running around 30,000 head of cattle, they have several billabongs on the property and sea frontage as well. They run fishing and hunting trips (for feral pigs and buffalo) and have powered camp sites and a cottage to rent.
Until the morning of the tour, we were the only ones booked but eventually 10 of us did it which was just a nice number. We had to travel 7ks by 4WD bus through the property to the lagoon, but the bus had a flat battery. The station owner (our guide for the tour) got his Jeep wrangler out thinking he could give the bus a tow-no way, so he called his son (who was out in the helicopter spotting a particular croc that a restaurant in Darwin is building a big and very expensive tank for). He arrived in the helicopter and decided they needed to jump start the bus with the station’s grader. All very entertaining and added another hour to our tour.
We headed out via the enormous cattle yards and after a tour of them (very interesting) and some history of the station we went down to the Billabong. The bus was left running while we cruised on the billabong so the battery could re charge.
The billabong was beautiful, it’s lined with many types of water lilies and other water plants and we saw so many different birds it became hard to count them. The different arms we travelled along were edged with grassland and monsoon rain forest so it was always interesting. We saw lot of crocs-fresh water and salties, a wild pig, and heaps of wallabies resting under trees out of the midday sun.
A Salty Enjoying the Sun
As the big pig waded through the muddy shallows (mud it had created) water birds rode on its back to stay out of the crocs reach. The tour was really quite cheap and we were able to take our own lunch and drinks along which I guess helped keep the price down too.
We finished the day with a swim at Buley Water Holes on the way home. It’s a beautiful spot and even though a couple of busloads of people came and went in the hour we were there, there are lots of holes, so plenty of room for all to swim.
Litchfield
Flowering Gum
We’ve spent two full days in Litchfield National park and it’s been the best fun. Lots of people told us Litchfield is “better” than Kakadu and I can’t agree. It’s like comparing apples and oranges-they’re different! Kakadu is great if you’re prepared (and can afford it) to drive all the way out there, fly over it, boat down it or take long walks to see it. Litchfield is easy-there are heaps of waterfalls where you can swim, in easy walking distance and nothing seems to cost lots of money. If I was ever to come back up here though, I would come out to Litchfield just to swim.
Yesterday, we got up early (for us) and did 3 of the waterfalls-Green Ant Creek and Tjaetaba Waterfall, Wangi Waterfall and Buley Rockhole.
Plunge Pool Above Tjaetaba Waterfall
At Green Ant, we walked a 3k circuit to the falls and were able to swim in a small plunge pool above the falls-the falls and pools below are a sacred aboriginal site. We were the only people there for a long time and it was really a beautiful water hole. The walk was lovely-through shaded monsoon forest for about a third of the way and up a fairly easy track to the top of the falls.
Wangi is an easy to get to spot so it was very busy with tour busses, but it’s a large pool so there was plenty of room for all. We saw lots of very large sooty grunter (fish) as we swam and no crocodiles! The two falls into the pool are beautiful and it was amazing to swim over and find one is quite cold and the other is really warm-they obviously come from two very different sources.
Wangi Falls
Buley Rockhole was a series of rock holes (naturally) of varying sizes and depths. The water came over and through them pretty swiftly, so it was like swimming in a lap pool. It felt the most refreshing of all the places we swam because of the fast moving water.
A Couple of the Buley Rockhole Pools
We stopped quickly to see the magnetic termite mounds-there are lots of huge termite mounds up here but the magnetic ones are very clever. Unlike other termites that go underground in the heat, the magnetic termites build with the sun in mind and live in the front in the mornings then go to the back of the mound in the afternoon. The mounds (which look like big sheets of slate) face roughly north/south. Just in case we hadn’t had enough water and fun, we came home and had another swim in the park’s lovely little salt water pool!
Today we slept late-mainly because it turned really cold in the night and we didn’t sleep too well early on. We drove from here out to the Lost City-a group of weathered sandstone formations only accessible by 4WD. It was a good drive and they were reasonably interesting but I guess we were comparing them with the Bungle Bungle and they didn’t stand up to the comparison.
The Lost City
Next we drove into Blythe Homestead along another 4WD only track. It had the deepest water crossing we have done so far and was lots of fun. The homestead was really interesting-it had a book for us to read written mostly from an oral account gathered by a granddaughter from her family. The homestead was an out station of another larger station and was used as a base by the same family to mine tin.
Blythe Homestead
I was amazed to read that the first child to leave home was the third one at age 25. She (with the help of her mother) decided she would go and live in Adelaide River and at age 25 had never handled money as the kids (who worked from before sun up to after sunset) had never been paid. They went out to Blythe homestead and worked cattle and the tin mine and their father would drop them off supplies every few months-they started working the tin mine around age ten. It was amazing to read that her father delivered all but the first two children (he watched a midwife deliver those then delivered the rest himself) and they had 13 I think. They were taught it was weak to go look for help (especially a doctor) and they had some horrible accidents happen to them as children working out at Blythe Homestead.
After Blythe Homestead, we drove on to Wangi Falls for lunch and another lovely swim. While we were making our lunch of wraps (me cutting, Russell assembling) a nice couple sitting opposite started to talk. He commented we made a good team then asked us all about us (where were we from, how long had we been travelling) we were amazed when we asked him the same-they were from the Netherlands and had been sailing around the world for 4 years with their son. He was 9 months old when they left and is about to turn 5 in two days. They docked in Darwin, bought a $55 tent, rented a car for a few days and came out to see Litchfield. They had had a year in Brisbane at a bible college and bought an old commodore which they drove to Melbourne, but otherwise have been sailing the whole time. The longest they went without sighting land was 23 days after leaving the Galapagos Islands!
We had another swim at Wangi, then went on Tolmer Falls-very scenic, but no swimming-before heading into Batchelor to buy a few groceries and check for mail. I can imagine they would be amazing in The Wet.
Tolmer Falls
We are staying at Banyan Tree Caravan Park which is 13ks from Batchelor and just outside the national park gates. It’s run by a nice German family (3 generations I think) On night one, there was us and 3 other couples, night two us an one other and last night us and two. One of those (a couple from QLD) who are camped right behind us, are leaving today so by the time we get home from our cruise, it might be just us! The park is really nice, we have a huge site with shade on 3 sides, the ablutions block is almost new and pretty clean, the pool is new, and they have a good little store that does good take-away (by the looks). And all this for $18.50 a night! They get a lot of busses calling in, and right now, I think that is all that is keeping them alive. I think most of the visitors who visit the park come from Darwin on a day tour which is a shame as there is so much to see and do.
We’ve spent two full days in Litchfield National park and it’s been the best fun. Lots of people told us Litchfield is “better” than Kakadu and I can’t agree. It’s like comparing apples and oranges-they’re different! Kakadu is great if you’re prepared (and can afford it) to drive all the way out there, fly over it, boat down it or take long walks to see it. Litchfield is easy-there are heaps of waterfalls where you can swim, in easy walking distance and nothing seems to cost lots of money. If I was ever to come back up here though, I would come out to Litchfield just to swim.
Yesterday, we got up early (for us) and did 3 of the waterfalls-Green Ant Creek and Tjaetaba Waterfall, Wangi Waterfall and Buley Rockhole.
Plunge Pool Above Tjaetaba Waterfall
At Green Ant, we walked a 3k circuit to the falls and were able to swim in a small plunge pool above the falls-the falls and pools below are a sacred aboriginal site. We were the only people there for a long time and it was really a beautiful water hole. The walk was lovely-through shaded monsoon forest for about a third of the way and up a fairly easy track to the top of the falls.
Wangi is an easy to get to spot so it was very busy with tour busses, but it’s a large pool so there was plenty of room for all. We saw lots of very large sooty grunter (fish) as we swam and no crocodiles! The two falls into the pool are beautiful and it was amazing to swim over and find one is quite cold and the other is really warm-they obviously come from two very different sources.
Wangi Falls
Buley Rockhole was a series of rock holes (naturally) of varying sizes and depths. The water came over and through them pretty swiftly, so it was like swimming in a lap pool. It felt the most refreshing of all the places we swam because of the fast moving water.
A Couple of the Buley Rockhole Pools
We stopped quickly to see the magnetic termite mounds-there are lots of huge termite mounds up here but the magnetic ones are very clever. Unlike other termites that go underground in the heat, the magnetic termites build with the sun in mind and live in the front in the mornings then go to the back of the mound in the afternoon. The mounds (which look like big sheets of slate) face roughly north/south. Just in case we hadn’t had enough water and fun, we came home and had another swim in the park’s lovely little salt water pool!
Today we slept late-mainly because it turned really cold in the night and we didn’t sleep too well early on. We drove from here out to the Lost City-a group of weathered sandstone formations only accessible by 4WD. It was a good drive and they were reasonably interesting but I guess we were comparing them with the Bungle Bungle and they didn’t stand up to the comparison.
The Lost City
Next we drove into Blythe Homestead along another 4WD only track. It had the deepest water crossing we have done so far and was lots of fun. The homestead was really interesting-it had a book for us to read written mostly from an oral account gathered by a granddaughter from her family. The homestead was an out station of another larger station and was used as a base by the same family to mine tin.
Blythe Homestead
I was amazed to read that the first child to leave home was the third one at age 25. She (with the help of her mother) decided she would go and live in Adelaide River and at age 25 had never handled money as the kids (who worked from before sun up to after sunset) had never been paid. They went out to Blythe homestead and worked cattle and the tin mine and their father would drop them off supplies every few months-they started working the tin mine around age ten. It was amazing to read that her father delivered all but the first two children (he watched a midwife deliver those then delivered the rest himself) and they had 13 I think. They were taught it was weak to go look for help (especially a doctor) and they had some horrible accidents happen to them as children working out at Blythe Homestead.
After Blythe Homestead, we drove on to Wangi Falls for lunch and another lovely swim. While we were making our lunch of wraps (me cutting, Russell assembling) a nice couple sitting opposite started to talk. He commented we made a good team then asked us all about us (where were we from, how long had we been travelling) we were amazed when we asked him the same-they were from the Netherlands and had been sailing around the world for 4 years with their son. He was 9 months old when they left and is about to turn 5 in two days. They docked in Darwin, bought a $55 tent, rented a car for a few days and came out to see Litchfield. They had had a year in Brisbane at a bible college and bought an old commodore which they drove to Melbourne, but otherwise have been sailing the whole time. The longest they went without sighting land was 23 days after leaving the Galapagos Islands!
We had another swim at Wangi, then went on Tolmer Falls-very scenic, but no swimming-before heading into Batchelor to buy a few groceries and check for mail. I can imagine they would be amazing in The Wet.
Tolmer Falls
We are staying at Banyan Tree Caravan Park which is 13ks from Batchelor and just outside the national park gates. It’s run by a nice German family (3 generations I think) On night one, there was us and 3 other couples, night two us an one other and last night us and two. One of those (a couple from QLD) who are camped right behind us, are leaving today so by the time we get home from our cruise, it might be just us! The park is really nice, we have a huge site with shade on 3 sides, the ablutions block is almost new and pretty clean, the pool is new, and they have a good little store that does good take-away (by the looks). And all this for $18.50 a night! They get a lot of busses calling in, and right now, I think that is all that is keeping them alive. I think most of the visitors who visit the park come from Darwin on a day tour which is a shame as there is so much to see and do.
Darwin and on to Litchfield National Park
"Cathederal" Termite Mound
We spent 6 nights in Darwin and today moved on to Banyan Tree Caravan Park situated between Batchelor and Litchfield National Park. We’ve booked for 4 nights.
Darwin was hot and very humid. It seems the weather was perfect for a month then changed the day we arrived. It certainly hit me hard. I’ve been getting quite used to the hot weather but the added humidity was too much for me. I just went from air-conditioned caravan, to car, to shopping centre, then did that all in reverse and finally got in the pool.
We’ve been to Darwin before (6 years ago) so had done most things, but we went again to Mindil market for dinner on the night we arrived, took a walk around the city centre (not much has changed there in 6 years), went to the aviation museum to see their impressive B52 and other displays, took a 1.8k walk around the Howard Springs reserve, got a hair cut and did quite a bit of shopping. We also caught up with Ron and Dell (who we met at Lake Argyle) for lunch at StarCity Casino on Monday. It was a good cheap buffet lunch if you are ever in Darwin looking for a meal.
We did take the boat off and go fishing on Elizabeth River (off Darwin Harbour). As we were launching the boat at 7am, a local chatting to me said “I hope you bought insect repellant or the sand flies will eat you alive”. We had and applied it often, but they found spots up our shorts where we hadn’t applied it, or just bit us through the repellant. Russell was the worse of the two of us with literally hundreds of bites. The sand flies and the fact we didn’t get a fish bite put us off going out again.
I had planned to meet another of my recipe club’s members, but the heat and humidity put me off doing that too.
I was pleased to leave the park we stayed in this morning-one neighbour had a whingy kid who started early and didn’t let up and the other had two bored whingy bull terriers who didn’t let up either the whole time they were at work! The actual park was nice-small and well shaded with a nice little pool, but I couldn’t have stayed there for much longer.
We drove into Batchelor and had a (very quick) look around. There’s a Big4 in town, but I didn’t like the look of it so we came out here. The couple beside us stayed one night in the Big4 then came out here as the pool in there was full of mossie larvae, the place lacked shade, and they didn’t think the park was worth $11 more a night compared to this. This place has lovely big trees, big sites and the pool is sparkling clean so we are here for at least 4 nights (or until mail from Warrnambool and Perth arrives).
We spent 6 nights in Darwin and today moved on to Banyan Tree Caravan Park situated between Batchelor and Litchfield National Park. We’ve booked for 4 nights.
Darwin was hot and very humid. It seems the weather was perfect for a month then changed the day we arrived. It certainly hit me hard. I’ve been getting quite used to the hot weather but the added humidity was too much for me. I just went from air-conditioned caravan, to car, to shopping centre, then did that all in reverse and finally got in the pool.
We’ve been to Darwin before (6 years ago) so had done most things, but we went again to Mindil market for dinner on the night we arrived, took a walk around the city centre (not much has changed there in 6 years), went to the aviation museum to see their impressive B52 and other displays, took a 1.8k walk around the Howard Springs reserve, got a hair cut and did quite a bit of shopping. We also caught up with Ron and Dell (who we met at Lake Argyle) for lunch at StarCity Casino on Monday. It was a good cheap buffet lunch if you are ever in Darwin looking for a meal.
We did take the boat off and go fishing on Elizabeth River (off Darwin Harbour). As we were launching the boat at 7am, a local chatting to me said “I hope you bought insect repellant or the sand flies will eat you alive”. We had and applied it often, but they found spots up our shorts where we hadn’t applied it, or just bit us through the repellant. Russell was the worse of the two of us with literally hundreds of bites. The sand flies and the fact we didn’t get a fish bite put us off going out again.
I had planned to meet another of my recipe club’s members, but the heat and humidity put me off doing that too.
I was pleased to leave the park we stayed in this morning-one neighbour had a whingy kid who started early and didn’t let up and the other had two bored whingy bull terriers who didn’t let up either the whole time they were at work! The actual park was nice-small and well shaded with a nice little pool, but I couldn’t have stayed there for much longer.
We drove into Batchelor and had a (very quick) look around. There’s a Big4 in town, but I didn’t like the look of it so we came out here. The couple beside us stayed one night in the Big4 then came out here as the pool in there was full of mossie larvae, the place lacked shade, and they didn’t think the park was worth $11 more a night compared to this. This place has lovely big trees, big sites and the pool is sparkling clean so we are here for at least 4 nights (or until mail from Warrnambool and Perth arrives).
Wednesday, August 29, 2007
Katherine
We're enjoying a few quiet days in Katherine (NTs third largest town population 11,000). It's warm and the humidity is starting to rise, but still pleasant. We got a great site with a free BBQ beside us giving us more room and no neighbours and we're only a short stroll to the bistro and best pool of our travels (the reason we are back here in the park).
Sunday after setting up we went to Woolworths and did a large grocery shop then that night we went up for a lamb roast at the bistro along with Ron and Del we originally met in Argyle. The roast was OK, but sitting under the big fig tree outside under the stars (with no insects) was wonderful.
Monday was a quiet day spent doing a little clothes shopping in the morning, then in the afternoon, swimming with Ron and Del-just getting in and out of the pool or spa when we needed to cool off. Russ did finally fix the TV problem with the (free) help of Johnny's Electics here in town. Our latest problem was a shorted out booster box that Johnny sent him home to fix after telling how he could do it. Very kind of Johnny as TV repairs usually don't come that cheap!
While we were shopping, we met two couples who we'd sat beside at the bistro-they were in-laws and were from Sale and Terang. Dan and Sue from Terang were the local chemist and kinda teacher and Sue had actually relieved at Panorama Ave kinder so knew exactly where we live!
They were heading into WA, so offered us their herb gardens that they had brought with them from home. Of course we accepted telling them they were going to a very good home.
On Monday evening we called over to pick up the herbs and hear what they thought about Edith falls as we planned to go the next day (yesterday). They weren't that impressed.
Swimming in the Upper Pool Edith Falls
Against their advice we headed out the 60ks to Edith falls. We walked 1k up to the escarpment and Upper Pool for a fantastic swim and beautiful view, then came down the other 1.6 "track" to the lower pool for another swim before heading home.
Upper Pool
Apart from me moaning and groaning all the way down the rocky escarpment for 1.6ks, it was great and I'm so glad we decided to go see for ourselves. The Upper Pool was a series of small pools and quite a bit warmer than the Lower Pool. The lower one was large-it was 150 metres (or 3 swimming pool lengths) to swim to the waterfall and had a strategically placed croc cage to give us comfort.
The Lower Pool
Last night we went over for drinks with them and it turns out the others didn't go to the upper pool.
Today we're doing a bit of washing, then will go check out the botanic gardens and museum, tomorrow we are going to Darwin.
Sunday after setting up we went to Woolworths and did a large grocery shop then that night we went up for a lamb roast at the bistro along with Ron and Del we originally met in Argyle. The roast was OK, but sitting under the big fig tree outside under the stars (with no insects) was wonderful.
Monday was a quiet day spent doing a little clothes shopping in the morning, then in the afternoon, swimming with Ron and Del-just getting in and out of the pool or spa when we needed to cool off. Russ did finally fix the TV problem with the (free) help of Johnny's Electics here in town. Our latest problem was a shorted out booster box that Johnny sent him home to fix after telling how he could do it. Very kind of Johnny as TV repairs usually don't come that cheap!
While we were shopping, we met two couples who we'd sat beside at the bistro-they were in-laws and were from Sale and Terang. Dan and Sue from Terang were the local chemist and kinda teacher and Sue had actually relieved at Panorama Ave kinder so knew exactly where we live!
They were heading into WA, so offered us their herb gardens that they had brought with them from home. Of course we accepted telling them they were going to a very good home.
On Monday evening we called over to pick up the herbs and hear what they thought about Edith falls as we planned to go the next day (yesterday). They weren't that impressed.
Swimming in the Upper Pool Edith Falls
Against their advice we headed out the 60ks to Edith falls. We walked 1k up to the escarpment and Upper Pool for a fantastic swim and beautiful view, then came down the other 1.6 "track" to the lower pool for another swim before heading home.
Upper Pool
Apart from me moaning and groaning all the way down the rocky escarpment for 1.6ks, it was great and I'm so glad we decided to go see for ourselves. The Upper Pool was a series of small pools and quite a bit warmer than the Lower Pool. The lower one was large-it was 150 metres (or 3 swimming pool lengths) to swim to the waterfall and had a strategically placed croc cage to give us comfort.
The Lower Pool
Last night we went over for drinks with them and it turns out the others didn't go to the upper pool.
Today we're doing a bit of washing, then will go check out the botanic gardens and museum, tomorrow we are going to Darwin.
Monday, August 27, 2007
Victoria River Crossing
The Old Victoria River Crossing
We stayed two nights at the Victoria River Crossing. It has a caravan park out back and while it seemed more civilised than Timber Creek, it had less shade so was quite hot and the sites were very uneven, so it was difficult to pick a good one and level the van!
The eastern end of Gregory national park is far more scenic than the other end. The road house sits in the middle of huge red escarpments dotted with livingstonia palms and the Victoria river cuts through all this.
Russ got the boat off and we went down the Victoria River as far as we could go (about 10 kilometres) then we headed back to the boat ramp and the junction of the Victoria River and Gregory Creek which we motered up another couple of ks.
Of all the boat trips we have done over the years, that part of the Victoria River was THE most beautiful I have ever seen-the wild life (crocs, kangaroos, tortoises, birds etc)and scenery was amazing. The other amazing thing was that we were the only people on the river. There are no houses or roads along that stretch of road and no other boats were put in at the ramp. There used to be a boat cuise, but the roadhouse lost the licence to the local aboriginals who haven't gotten around to starting their boat cruise yet. So we really were out there seeing something not manay can get to see. I'm angry at myself for taking out a camera with two flat batteries though as I got no pictures!. Neither did Russ when he got up early and walked to the top of the escarpment (a couple of ks) to lookout over the valley!
30 years ago when I started to travel Australia, I had a dream to one day go right around the country on Highway 1. When we arrived in Katherine yesterday, I finally did it. Now I'd like to buy a camper trailer and go all the places you can't take a caravan like ours!
We are staying in a park we stayed in 6 years ago. It's still lovely. After a big shop for groceries, we ran into a couple we met recently (Ron and Del), so all went for a swim, then over to the park bistro for a Sunday roast and a few drinks. We sat outside under the stars eating, listening to a very pleasant entertainer and just having a nice time.
We stayed two nights at the Victoria River Crossing. It has a caravan park out back and while it seemed more civilised than Timber Creek, it had less shade so was quite hot and the sites were very uneven, so it was difficult to pick a good one and level the van!
The eastern end of Gregory national park is far more scenic than the other end. The road house sits in the middle of huge red escarpments dotted with livingstonia palms and the Victoria river cuts through all this.
Russ got the boat off and we went down the Victoria River as far as we could go (about 10 kilometres) then we headed back to the boat ramp and the junction of the Victoria River and Gregory Creek which we motered up another couple of ks.
Of all the boat trips we have done over the years, that part of the Victoria River was THE most beautiful I have ever seen-the wild life (crocs, kangaroos, tortoises, birds etc)and scenery was amazing. The other amazing thing was that we were the only people on the river. There are no houses or roads along that stretch of road and no other boats were put in at the ramp. There used to be a boat cuise, but the roadhouse lost the licence to the local aboriginals who haven't gotten around to starting their boat cruise yet. So we really were out there seeing something not manay can get to see. I'm angry at myself for taking out a camera with two flat batteries though as I got no pictures!. Neither did Russ when he got up early and walked to the top of the escarpment (a couple of ks) to lookout over the valley!
30 years ago when I started to travel Australia, I had a dream to one day go right around the country on Highway 1. When we arrived in Katherine yesterday, I finally did it. Now I'd like to buy a camper trailer and go all the places you can't take a caravan like ours!
We are staying in a park we stayed in 6 years ago. It's still lovely. After a big shop for groceries, we ran into a couple we met recently (Ron and Del), so all went for a swim, then over to the park bistro for a Sunday roast and a few drinks. We sat outside under the stars eating, listening to a very pleasant entertainer and just having a nice time.
Timber Creek
Victoria River from Policeman's Point Lookout
Timber Creek turned out to be a much better stop over than we’d expected. Quite a few people had advised us to drive straight through to Victoria River Crossing and stay there, but we took no notice of them!
Russ (and I) wanted to visit the west end of Gregory National Park and put our boat in on the river, so we needed to stay 3 nights. We took a site in the very back corner of the park and as it was really quiet we were able to spread us and the boat and car over three sites which was pretty nice. Our neighbours turned out to be a couple (Beryl and Ron) we had been beside in Wyndham-it was nice to see them again. It was good to have TV, internet and phone again too after a few days without at Lake Argyle.
Our fishing trip the following morning was a bit of a waste of 6 hours-a couple of archer fish, lots of cat fish and no barra. We saw lots of crocs with one being the biggest we have ever seen. We reckoned he was 15-17 foot long! I have to say I don’t mind the crocs as we fish, but I don’t like pulling into the boat ramp, getting out then being left to hold the boat while Russ gets the trailer. I keep a very sharp lookout and would just let the boat go if a croc looked like coming anywhere near me. We got home from fishing to find another couple we’d been beside at Lake Argyle (Ron and Del) were just a few vans away from us. We had a nice catch up with them and will probably stay in the same park in Katherine in a couple of days.
Gregory National Park from Calcite Walk Lookout
Gregory national park was pretty good-very hot and dry though and the Limestone Gorge we’d particularly gone out to do was closed due to recent storm damage. If only they’d posted that on the information board 6ks back (6 k of 4WD track). Instead, we took the shorter Calcite Walk to see a calcified waterfall. It was pretty good and the views from the lookout were nice too. Then we took a walk around the homestead, outbuildings and stock yard of what was Bullita Station. It’s free and self guided and really interesting.
Harness Shed at Bullita Homestead
When we got back from our drive, the park was really starting to fill up, so we put the boat on the car, packed up the trailer and squeezed back onto our original site. A really nice SA couple (Bob and Anna) with two Shiatsus turned up in a huge Winnebago motor home and pulled in frontward beside us. That meant we were all sitting outside on the same side, so we ended up having a drink, then dinner and finally a coffee together while we sat and talked and talked and talked. They own a couple of pubs but have leased them out and have been in catering for years, so we had lots to talk about. They are going the other way and really wanted us to stay on another night, but there is only so much to do in Timber Creek!
Victoria River from Escarpment Lookout
We left Timber Creek this morning and drove on to Victoria River Crossing where we plan to stay at least two nights so we can do the escarpment walk in the east end of Gregory National Park. The river looks much prettier here too, so I think the boat might be coming off and if it does, that probably means another night. There is a helicopter giving scenic flights just over at the roadhouse, and I’m deciding if I will go take one as the price is really cheap ($60 for 12 minutes of terror).
Timber Creek turned out to be a much better stop over than we’d expected. Quite a few people had advised us to drive straight through to Victoria River Crossing and stay there, but we took no notice of them!
Russ (and I) wanted to visit the west end of Gregory National Park and put our boat in on the river, so we needed to stay 3 nights. We took a site in the very back corner of the park and as it was really quiet we were able to spread us and the boat and car over three sites which was pretty nice. Our neighbours turned out to be a couple (Beryl and Ron) we had been beside in Wyndham-it was nice to see them again. It was good to have TV, internet and phone again too after a few days without at Lake Argyle.
Our fishing trip the following morning was a bit of a waste of 6 hours-a couple of archer fish, lots of cat fish and no barra. We saw lots of crocs with one being the biggest we have ever seen. We reckoned he was 15-17 foot long! I have to say I don’t mind the crocs as we fish, but I don’t like pulling into the boat ramp, getting out then being left to hold the boat while Russ gets the trailer. I keep a very sharp lookout and would just let the boat go if a croc looked like coming anywhere near me. We got home from fishing to find another couple we’d been beside at Lake Argyle (Ron and Del) were just a few vans away from us. We had a nice catch up with them and will probably stay in the same park in Katherine in a couple of days.
Gregory National Park from Calcite Walk Lookout
Gregory national park was pretty good-very hot and dry though and the Limestone Gorge we’d particularly gone out to do was closed due to recent storm damage. If only they’d posted that on the information board 6ks back (6 k of 4WD track). Instead, we took the shorter Calcite Walk to see a calcified waterfall. It was pretty good and the views from the lookout were nice too. Then we took a walk around the homestead, outbuildings and stock yard of what was Bullita Station. It’s free and self guided and really interesting.
Harness Shed at Bullita Homestead
When we got back from our drive, the park was really starting to fill up, so we put the boat on the car, packed up the trailer and squeezed back onto our original site. A really nice SA couple (Bob and Anna) with two Shiatsus turned up in a huge Winnebago motor home and pulled in frontward beside us. That meant we were all sitting outside on the same side, so we ended up having a drink, then dinner and finally a coffee together while we sat and talked and talked and talked. They own a couple of pubs but have leased them out and have been in catering for years, so we had lots to talk about. They are going the other way and really wanted us to stay on another night, but there is only so much to do in Timber Creek!
Victoria River from Escarpment Lookout
We left Timber Creek this morning and drove on to Victoria River Crossing where we plan to stay at least two nights so we can do the escarpment walk in the east end of Gregory National Park. The river looks much prettier here too, so I think the boat might be coming off and if it does, that probably means another night. There is a helicopter giving scenic flights just over at the roadhouse, and I’m deciding if I will go take one as the price is really cheap ($60 for 12 minutes of terror).
Tuesday, August 21, 2007
Lake Argyle
Lake Argyle at Dusk
It’s been a lovely couple of nights so far at Lake Argyle, which is a really pretty spot in the Kimberley. We arrived here quite late on Saturday as I needed to stop in Kununurra at the hospital before we came on here. I’ve been having trouble with my right eye and wanted to see someone about it before we headed here and on to Timber Creek and Victoria River Crossing where I knew there’d be no medical services (apart from a first aid box a lot of roadhouses keep).
I’d been to the hospital in Wyndham the afternoon before, but arrived late and the doctor had finished for the day. The only other way to see ANY doctor in the area was to go to outpatients in Kununurra in the morning. There would be no doctor at the hospital on Sunday as she’d be out at a community and there are no doctors in private practice in a town of 6000 plus us tourists. All pretty tough for the locals.
After a wait of 4 hours to see the doctor, although the eye was swollen, bloodshot and vision blurred, they couldn’t find what has been irritating it and me for 9 days.
When it was time for me to see the doctor, a nurse called a large aboriginal man in a wheelchair and me in at the same time. I followed him in, then asked another nurse where I should go. She said it was OK if I went in with my husband which gave him and me a good laugh!
The drive out to Lake Argyle was very pretty-especially when we turned off the highway and drove the 35ks in. Lake Argyle is Australia’s largest body of fresh water and was formed when the cattle station Argyle owned by the Durack family was dammed. The Durack family came to Australia from Ireland and eventually settled up here taking pastoral leases around Old Halls Creek, Wyndham and Kununurra. Mum borrowed all Mary Durack’s books on the family history from Warragul library when I was around 12 and as I read them all too, I was pretty excited to see the area.
Dead Horse Springs
Sunday we took a drive out to all the look-outs over the lake, then after lunch went out to the Durack’s Argyle homestead. It was rescued before the site was flooded and then rebuilt as a tourist attraction over the next two years. It was apparently hard work as the stone walls were over 13 inches thick and had to be numbered to get them back together. On the way back we stopped to look at Dead Horse Spring, took a drive along the Slipway Creek and finally stopped at an interesting looking rock. We thought there should be aboriginal rock paintings somewhere like there and there was. We found a cave with a very good crocodile, people and the stenciled hands you often see.
Ord River and Picnic Ground
We had thought about taking a boat tour, but decided the $150 each for a 5 hour tour was a bit pricey especially when we already had 3 days sailing in the Kimberley! Instead, we put our boat in the water and gave ourselves a 3 hour tour. We saw lots of birds, a croc and we had a couple of bites on our barra lure-it was beautiful out there and cost us $17 and two pieces of fruit!
Row, Row, Row the Boat on Lake Argyle
After a late lunch and a little rest, we went down to the “swimming beach” (which also doubles as a rather rocky boat ramp) for a very pleasant dip. We had heaps of barra, a few cat fish, archer fish and a black bream around us as we took our swim.
Tomorrow against many people’s recommendations, we’ll head to Timber Creek where we will visit Gregory National Park which was part of another Durack cattle station.
It’s been a lovely couple of nights so far at Lake Argyle, which is a really pretty spot in the Kimberley. We arrived here quite late on Saturday as I needed to stop in Kununurra at the hospital before we came on here. I’ve been having trouble with my right eye and wanted to see someone about it before we headed here and on to Timber Creek and Victoria River Crossing where I knew there’d be no medical services (apart from a first aid box a lot of roadhouses keep).
I’d been to the hospital in Wyndham the afternoon before, but arrived late and the doctor had finished for the day. The only other way to see ANY doctor in the area was to go to outpatients in Kununurra in the morning. There would be no doctor at the hospital on Sunday as she’d be out at a community and there are no doctors in private practice in a town of 6000 plus us tourists. All pretty tough for the locals.
After a wait of 4 hours to see the doctor, although the eye was swollen, bloodshot and vision blurred, they couldn’t find what has been irritating it and me for 9 days.
When it was time for me to see the doctor, a nurse called a large aboriginal man in a wheelchair and me in at the same time. I followed him in, then asked another nurse where I should go. She said it was OK if I went in with my husband which gave him and me a good laugh!
The drive out to Lake Argyle was very pretty-especially when we turned off the highway and drove the 35ks in. Lake Argyle is Australia’s largest body of fresh water and was formed when the cattle station Argyle owned by the Durack family was dammed. The Durack family came to Australia from Ireland and eventually settled up here taking pastoral leases around Old Halls Creek, Wyndham and Kununurra. Mum borrowed all Mary Durack’s books on the family history from Warragul library when I was around 12 and as I read them all too, I was pretty excited to see the area.
Dead Horse Springs
Sunday we took a drive out to all the look-outs over the lake, then after lunch went out to the Durack’s Argyle homestead. It was rescued before the site was flooded and then rebuilt as a tourist attraction over the next two years. It was apparently hard work as the stone walls were over 13 inches thick and had to be numbered to get them back together. On the way back we stopped to look at Dead Horse Spring, took a drive along the Slipway Creek and finally stopped at an interesting looking rock. We thought there should be aboriginal rock paintings somewhere like there and there was. We found a cave with a very good crocodile, people and the stenciled hands you often see.
Ord River and Picnic Ground
We had thought about taking a boat tour, but decided the $150 each for a 5 hour tour was a bit pricey especially when we already had 3 days sailing in the Kimberley! Instead, we put our boat in the water and gave ourselves a 3 hour tour. We saw lots of birds, a croc and we had a couple of bites on our barra lure-it was beautiful out there and cost us $17 and two pieces of fruit!
Row, Row, Row the Boat on Lake Argyle
After a late lunch and a little rest, we went down to the “swimming beach” (which also doubles as a rather rocky boat ramp) for a very pleasant dip. We had heaps of barra, a few cat fish, archer fish and a black bream around us as we took our swim.
Tomorrow against many people’s recommendations, we’ll head to Timber Creek where we will visit Gregory National Park which was part of another Durack cattle station.
Thursday, August 16, 2007
El Questro
Dreamtime Statues Wyndham
Yesterday we'd planned to take a drive out to El Qestro but slept too late to do it. We had a swim, took a look around town, then took another swim instead. Wyndham has been the hottest place in WA for the past few days, so the pool is a wonderful spot to pass a couple of hours!
There's not much to look at in town-a spectacular look out that gives great views of the 5 rivers that meet below, some very large Dreamtime statues, a Big Crocodile and the largest Boab in captivity right here in our park. Thank goodness for the pool! We met our former Kununurra neighbours Graham and Ann at the lookout.
Today we managed to get out of bed early and drive out to El Qestro. We'd decided to do a circuit so headed out along the King River Road, taking a short cut over the salt flats to cut a few kilometres out. We'd followed an aboriginal family out of town, overtook them and drove on, calling in to look at Moochalabra dam that supplies Wyndham's water, and then an aboriginal rock art site. When we got to the King River Crossing, a couple of the aboriginal teenagers were fishing and the other three had lit a fire on the rocks and were obviously waiting for a feed of fish. It was a lovely place to spend a few hours.
King River Road then turned into Karunjie Track at the Wyndham Prison tree-these prison trees were used by police as overnight lock-ups mainly for Aboriginal prisoners.
Karunjie track was in better condition than we'd expected-recently graded and good travelling. No real need for a 4WD we reckoned. We passed through a number of gates and noticed a lot of them were new and the fences too. Then we started to see new signs telling us we were on Private Property and shouldn't drive on their salt flats. I opened a gate and noticed two 4WDs coming so waited for them before closing the gate-you get so sick of opening and closing them it's nice when someone does it for you. Anyhow, we both commented on them being hire vehicles.
A bit further on, we saw heaps of cattle trucks, 4WDs, cattle and figured they must be mustering. Then we noticed the horses, cranes and helicopter and figured out just before we saw the sign "Location" that we had stumbled on the very secret (well it is round here) locaton of Nic and Hugh's movie. I'm not star struck, but it has been so hush hush up here it felt like spotting the first whale for the season in Warrnambool!
The moment we past the movie location, the track became just that, a track. It was rocky, rutted, and the ruts were full of bull dust in lots of places.
Karunjie Track
We'd just spent 20 minutes crawling over small boulders like you find in a creek bed when we ran into a SA couple. We stopped for a chat and I was horrified when I asked how much more of this there's be and he answered "30ks". It'd taken them 2 hours to cover the 30ks and I was ready for home, but the boulders stopped and we were left with the rutted, windy rocky track again which was so much better than the creek bed. It was a very beautiful drive with the King and Pentecost rivers often on our right and the Cockburn range always on our left. There were lots of farm dams and lots of birds and cattle-it really was worth the drive.
The Gibb River Road seemed like a highway when we finally arrive there, and although we'd been told the road into El Questro wasn't so good, the grader had just been over it and it was good too. Finally at El Questro round 1ish, we discovered they wanted $15 per head for just being there so turned around and went out again. We figured we have seen plenty of gorges and although they are all different, they'd have to be good to beat the ones in the Bungle Bungle.
Pentecost River Crossing El Questro
Back on the Gibb River Road, we stopped for a latish lunch then called into Tier Gorge and Matteo's Rock. Tier Gorge was supposed to be a good spot for a swim and it was. We were so lucky to be the only one there to enjoy it too.
Tier Gorge
Matteo's Rock was another (very good) Aboriginal Rock Art Site.
Rock Art Matteo's Rock
We got home round 5 and called over to see the SA couple we met out on the road as they wanted to know when we got back, then we had another feed of Barra and chips for dinner for a treat.
Yesterday we'd planned to take a drive out to El Qestro but slept too late to do it. We had a swim, took a look around town, then took another swim instead. Wyndham has been the hottest place in WA for the past few days, so the pool is a wonderful spot to pass a couple of hours!
There's not much to look at in town-a spectacular look out that gives great views of the 5 rivers that meet below, some very large Dreamtime statues, a Big Crocodile and the largest Boab in captivity right here in our park. Thank goodness for the pool! We met our former Kununurra neighbours Graham and Ann at the lookout.
Today we managed to get out of bed early and drive out to El Qestro. We'd decided to do a circuit so headed out along the King River Road, taking a short cut over the salt flats to cut a few kilometres out. We'd followed an aboriginal family out of town, overtook them and drove on, calling in to look at Moochalabra dam that supplies Wyndham's water, and then an aboriginal rock art site. When we got to the King River Crossing, a couple of the aboriginal teenagers were fishing and the other three had lit a fire on the rocks and were obviously waiting for a feed of fish. It was a lovely place to spend a few hours.
King River Road then turned into Karunjie Track at the Wyndham Prison tree-these prison trees were used by police as overnight lock-ups mainly for Aboriginal prisoners.
Karunjie track was in better condition than we'd expected-recently graded and good travelling. No real need for a 4WD we reckoned. We passed through a number of gates and noticed a lot of them were new and the fences too. Then we started to see new signs telling us we were on Private Property and shouldn't drive on their salt flats. I opened a gate and noticed two 4WDs coming so waited for them before closing the gate-you get so sick of opening and closing them it's nice when someone does it for you. Anyhow, we both commented on them being hire vehicles.
A bit further on, we saw heaps of cattle trucks, 4WDs, cattle and figured they must be mustering. Then we noticed the horses, cranes and helicopter and figured out just before we saw the sign "Location" that we had stumbled on the very secret (well it is round here) locaton of Nic and Hugh's movie. I'm not star struck, but it has been so hush hush up here it felt like spotting the first whale for the season in Warrnambool!
The moment we past the movie location, the track became just that, a track. It was rocky, rutted, and the ruts were full of bull dust in lots of places.
Karunjie Track
We'd just spent 20 minutes crawling over small boulders like you find in a creek bed when we ran into a SA couple. We stopped for a chat and I was horrified when I asked how much more of this there's be and he answered "30ks". It'd taken them 2 hours to cover the 30ks and I was ready for home, but the boulders stopped and we were left with the rutted, windy rocky track again which was so much better than the creek bed. It was a very beautiful drive with the King and Pentecost rivers often on our right and the Cockburn range always on our left. There were lots of farm dams and lots of birds and cattle-it really was worth the drive.
The Gibb River Road seemed like a highway when we finally arrive there, and although we'd been told the road into El Questro wasn't so good, the grader had just been over it and it was good too. Finally at El Questro round 1ish, we discovered they wanted $15 per head for just being there so turned around and went out again. We figured we have seen plenty of gorges and although they are all different, they'd have to be good to beat the ones in the Bungle Bungle.
Pentecost River Crossing El Questro
Back on the Gibb River Road, we stopped for a latish lunch then called into Tier Gorge and Matteo's Rock. Tier Gorge was supposed to be a good spot for a swim and it was. We were so lucky to be the only one there to enjoy it too.
Tier Gorge
Matteo's Rock was another (very good) Aboriginal Rock Art Site.
Rock Art Matteo's Rock
We got home round 5 and called over to see the SA couple we met out on the road as they wanted to know when we got back, then we had another feed of Barra and chips for dinner for a treat.
Wednesday, August 15, 2007
Car Service and Move on to Wyndham
Monday we had the car serviced at the local Nissan Dealer. It's the first time we have taken it in to Nissan-we've used small local blokes previously. Our last 3 services were $150, $159 and $199. As this was a big one, we were expecting it to be pricey, but both almost passed out when it was nearing $700 (and that's after a 10& discount for being Big4 members!) No more Nissan dealers for our Nivarra!
Tuesday, we packed up and took the van down to an auto electrician to have the 7 pin plug replaced. That was a pleasant $50 and made us feel a bit better. Oh, and the insurance cheque for the broken TV arrived in Warrnambool on Monday according to our neighbour David, so that was good news too.
It was so sad leaving Kununurra-it's been a lovely park to stay in. The lake is a wonderful place to sit and watch the sunset of an evening and lots of people did just that. Everyone would wander out and sit or stand and chat, so like Port Smith, it's been very friendly.
We've back-tracked 100ks to come to Wyndham. It's out on the coast west of Kununurra and although the drive was beautiful, the town really isn't. It has a few local scenic attractions and is a good place to visit El Questro and a number of gorges from. The park is shaded and has a pool, so we have taken advantage of their "pay for three, stay 1 more for free" offer, but I think that will be enough. One of the caretakers tried to coax Russ into staying an extra night so we could go to the race meeting, but I think we spent our allowance on the car and van this month. This coast line is famous for some of the biggest salt water crocodiles found in Australia, and although there are plenty of mud crabs out there, those crocs and the big tides are probably going to deter us. The weather is warming up too-around 36 lately through the day and not going much below 22 at night. I don't mind the warm days now we are always near a pool, but I wish the nights were a little cooler.
Last night on the recommendation of people we'd met in Kununurra we had barra and chips for dinner. One of the park caretakers sets up a mobile food van between 5 and 7 pm to sell his barra and chips. That's all he sells and he claims that the $15 serve will be enough for two to share. He's right, we got 3 huge bits of barra in a lovely light batter and a huge serve of crispy chips for our $15. Russ saw him cut the filets fresh from a whole side of barra and it was almost the best fish and chips I have ever eaten-just about worth coming to Wyndham for!
We had planned to go out to El Questro today, but the place is so quiet after Kununurra, we slept through til after 8 and have been to slow getting up and going, so we've changed our plans and will try again tomorrow.
Tuesday, we packed up and took the van down to an auto electrician to have the 7 pin plug replaced. That was a pleasant $50 and made us feel a bit better. Oh, and the insurance cheque for the broken TV arrived in Warrnambool on Monday according to our neighbour David, so that was good news too.
It was so sad leaving Kununurra-it's been a lovely park to stay in. The lake is a wonderful place to sit and watch the sunset of an evening and lots of people did just that. Everyone would wander out and sit or stand and chat, so like Port Smith, it's been very friendly.
We've back-tracked 100ks to come to Wyndham. It's out on the coast west of Kununurra and although the drive was beautiful, the town really isn't. It has a few local scenic attractions and is a good place to visit El Questro and a number of gorges from. The park is shaded and has a pool, so we have taken advantage of their "pay for three, stay 1 more for free" offer, but I think that will be enough. One of the caretakers tried to coax Russ into staying an extra night so we could go to the race meeting, but I think we spent our allowance on the car and van this month. This coast line is famous for some of the biggest salt water crocodiles found in Australia, and although there are plenty of mud crabs out there, those crocs and the big tides are probably going to deter us. The weather is warming up too-around 36 lately through the day and not going much below 22 at night. I don't mind the warm days now we are always near a pool, but I wish the nights were a little cooler.
Last night on the recommendation of people we'd met in Kununurra we had barra and chips for dinner. One of the park caretakers sets up a mobile food van between 5 and 7 pm to sell his barra and chips. That's all he sells and he claims that the $15 serve will be enough for two to share. He's right, we got 3 huge bits of barra in a lovely light batter and a huge serve of crispy chips for our $15. Russ saw him cut the filets fresh from a whole side of barra and it was almost the best fish and chips I have ever eaten-just about worth coming to Wyndham for!
We had planned to go out to El Questro today, but the place is so quiet after Kununurra, we slept through til after 8 and have been to slow getting up and going, so we've changed our plans and will try again tomorrow.
Saturday, August 11, 2007
More on Kununurra
Yesterday we went out to the Mirima National Park for a look around. It's only a small park and is almost in the middle of town. It's most famous for being a small easily accesable version of the Bungle Bungle, and a moderately difficult walk to the lookout gives good views over town and the irrigation areas.
Next we took a drive round the irrigation areas and stopped at the two veg shops to stock up. I'm sad and sorry there are no other stalls at farm gates, but the prices were still OK. We bought bananas for $3 per kg, tomatoes for $2 kg, capsicum $3 kg, broccoli for $2 kg, a beautiful ripe, fragrant canteloupe for $1 ea, a big butternut pumpkin for $1 ea and a couple of good sized zucc 50c ea, and corn cobs 40c each (very nice for lunch when we got home). I also bought local chickpeas for $5 per kg-not sure if that's good, but I wanted to try them and the interesting recipes they came with!
After lunch we headed way up the river for a bit more croc spotting-didn't do as well as last time though. It's a beautiful part of the ord river and fun to take our boat up there.
Middle Springs
Today we went to the market-the same veg we bought yesterday were about half as much again so it's lucky we'd already bought them. After that we headed on a drive out of town to Valentine Pool (a lovely temp for a swim later on today I think), then Middle Spring and Black Rock Falls.
Black Rock Falls
There's not much water coming over the falls, but it was a lovely quiet cool spot to sit for half and hour and contemplate our navels. To make a round trip of it, we had to come home over the Ivanhoe Crossing on the Ord River. It looked pretty scary as the water rushed over the two concrete crossings, but Russell assured me it would be safe and it was. The first crossing was about 30 metres and the second around 100 and although they aren't particularly deep, the water goes over at an alarming rate (or so it seemed to me).
Ivanhoe Crossing
We have new neighbours moved in beside us, and it was nice to find out they have been living on the road for 22 months. We do cop a lot of "I don't know how you could do it" from lots of people who say they couldn't leave their house, garden, elderly parents, grand children, golf club, friends etc etc etc for so long si it's interesting to talk to someone who has done it for longer and is still loving it.
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